I had posted a rather lengthy about my router issues and like when I was a kid I decided to bust a part my old locked up router first thing I found the plastic collar that goes around bottom bearing was completely melted into the top of the bearing not sure if that is by design or not but it took a bit to chisel it off second I had to see the numbers on the bearing and they are 6003rs on one end and chl on opposite side after more research if I’m correct they are made in hong kong if that’s the case I’m not certain carbide will get out of the issues with locked up routers the new one I just purchased makes some occasional barking sounds like it’s ready to " blow" so I thought let it go till it does …what a piece of junk and I hate saying that because I really really like my shapeoko 4 xxl. Danny
Periods (.) are your friend. (Really hard to read)
To me it sounds like the load on the motor was more than it’s designed for, causing it to get hot enough to melt the plastic collar.
I would try slowing the feed rate, depth per pass and the RPMS of the router. This could help keep the router from getting too hot and burning up.
The C3D router is a Makita clone. Because C3D sells their router they get a lot of reports here on the forum about their C3D routers. I have replaced a C3D router with a Makita and it was just as bad. My SO3 had the 69MM Dewalt 611 router. In almost 5 years I have had to replace the brushes once and otherwise problem free. The SO3 had a 69MM router mount and an adapter for a 66MM Makita/C3D router. The bad C3D router was on a used SO3 XL I bought and the bearings were bad. So I bought a locally sourced Makita. Unfortunately the newer machines come with the 66MM router mount and you would have to buy a new router mount for the 69MM Dewalt. The Dewalt has a longer body so you can get a little more Z depth with it. However the Makita/C3D routers have a slightly lower RPM than the Dewalt. I liked the Dewalt so much I bought a plunge and fixed base Dewalt 611 for use around the shop as a trim router and as a backup. Since my original Dewalt knows it has a backup it just keeps chugging along.
You can buy the Makita for around $150.00 and may be cheaper if you search and shop more. The Dewalt is about $150.00 at Lowes and can be found cheaper if you shop around. Adding the 69MM router mount is about $80.00. I think the change to Dewalt might be worth it for the headaches the Makita/C3D router causes. There are many Makita/C3D routers that never have a problem.
With I would guess over 100 hours on the old router and two years it had an ok life but straight out of the box with about three hours and locking up frustrating an unacceptable . My red flag regardless on what router you use on your machine should not give you and advertise the higher rpm for an attractive sale and can’t handle it should not sell it that way. I would be more than happy to pay 2 to 3 hundred bucks on higher quality aka USA made and it can handle several hundreds of hours of use I’m all for it. My question now is the $ 800 vfd is the quality there bearing wise and durability or is the cost because of the bells and whistles ,the reason why I ask and do the " attractive" upgrade I look at the difference between the base router compared to the $150 router is collets thats an expensive 2 collet upgrade. I appreciate your guys comments I have been in the custom cabinetry business for 37 years but always still learning even in this business. Thanks Danny
After more research i printed the recommended chart for 1/4" endmill and 1/4" bullnose speed and feed but can’t find a PDF on v bits or smaller endmill bits . Do any of you know where I can find them . Thanks Danny
The problem is, a Made in the U.S.A. spindle would be quite a bit more than 2–3 hundred dollars.
Germany is making them in a variety of models, but the form factor is awkward to say the least (43mm neck/mounting point) or a flat back which requires an adapter plate:
which I have working, but still need to resolve dust collection for shorter tools (which due to the scale of work I do is most of what I use).
I’m surprised that there isn’t a thin high temp spacer to keep the plastic from heating up and melting in the router bearing I was surprised after two years how black and melted it was to the bearing . But as I previously posted the brand new router for replacement only lasted 3 hours in running 3 projects even at high rpm at that short of a time should not have happened. For future runs I will adjust settings as you guys suggest to hope to prevent future issues like this. And one last thing I still have not heard back from customer service about replacement thats kind of frustrating.
I feel the cutter information given in the CC tool data base is as good as any for a “starting point” that I’ve seen.
I hope it helps to share with you that you’re not alone, there’s quite a few of us in that boat…
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