If you are cutting into it constantly, as on an MDF filler strip on the Hybrid T-track, or a spoilboard added to an SO3, then no, it probably doesn’t help to seal it — if you need additional stability in something you are constantly cutting into the solution is to use a more stable material such as cellular PVC.
Sealing only makes sense in the instance of a piece which is intended to last — the baseplate on an SO3, or the MDF Filler strips on the Hybrid T-track if one will be mounting a spoilboard on top of them.
Ok so I finally got the time between a bunch of medical appointments to work on this again and I wanted to update my progress, I bolted down the spoilboard until it was flat against the top of my shapeokos original spoilboard slats using the slots underneath. (thank you for this suggestion Will)
I refinished the top using a Whiteside Fly cutter this time and it did a much better job than the McFly Cutter. I was like a night and day difference. The Whiteside Fly Cutter did not leave high grooves like the McFly did between passes and I only had to lightly sand it briefly over the top to get it totally smooth.
The pocket in progress is with the Whiteside Flycutter. Outside of that is the original surface the McFly bit left. There is a huge noticeable difference between the two.
I did get the Edge Technology Mini Pro Tram for my Shapeoko and plan on tramming it soon but I do not think it is far off it is off at all based on how the Whiteside Fly Cutter did.
When I go to replace this spoilboard I will do as you suggested gdon and Neil to extract the t-nuts and seal it.
Thank you Julien for the explanation of how to do the slats and the history of the machines , and the zeroing on stock bottom method (I will have to look more into that.
If I missed anyone thank you to you as well. Appreciate the help
