Sorry, 2 flute for all.
Also, I’m usually more aggressive on my DOC. 1/2 of endmill Dia equals DOC is my normal go-to. But since this was a one time opportunity, I backed off.
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yeah 50% D for DOC when using a large stepover is my baseline too.
So, you used chiploads of 0,0017’’ for 1/4’’, 0,0011’’ for 1/8’’, and 0,008 for 1/16’’. Yet again evidence that anything above the golden value of ~0,001’’ is fine, and then you could push things further (at least for the 1/4’’ roughing) but of course productivity was not your concern for this job
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One more thing that I did not do on this that I wish I would have: put a few coats of lacquer on before milling. I’ve noticed that if you put a nice coat of lacquer on a surface ready for milling it will help with any tear out and fuzzies. The lacquer basically surface hardens the wood and helps tremendously. Also, if after milling, if you intend on painting the project. A few coats of lacquer helps by creating a nice coat to paint onto. You use less paint, and the paint will not seep into the grain. It also dries really fast, 30min per coat of lacquer.
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On pine or cedar that ends up painted I have used Zinsser B.I.N. shellac-based primer with great results. It Blocks the sap/pitch staining that can occur and I can spray it heavy over rough spots as it builds well, dries quickly, and sands easily if your not too impatient.
My brother is a painter and would concur with your use of lacquer, he has been trying to get me to switch to it for a while now.
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I was using spray lacquer, but recently switched to brush on. The cost savings alone is worth it, but the brush on is just a much better way to apply it. IMHO
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