Some of my projects use thicker stock, so I have the router mounted about 3/8" inch above “fully inserted” in the cradle, as shown in the picture. This has been the best compromise height to allow the router to get over the top of thick stock but also reach the BitSetter. I do have to ensure that a short bit extends at least 3/4" inch below the chuck; otherwise the Z carriage will crash trying to reach the BitSetter.
For the first time, I want to surface the spoilboard; it’s flat within about 0.015", which until now has been good enough. However, I can’t jog the McFly bit down to the level of the spoilboard in order to set Z zero. It stops about 3/8" inch above the surface as shown in the second pic, even though it’s capable of going lower (it activates the BitSetter without issue).
How do I jog the bit lower? Or is there some other solution? I thought to hack around it by using a starting pocket depth below zero, but CC doesn’t allow that.
Version info: Shapeoko Pro XXL, CC v648, CM v563, GRBL v1.1f
If the endmill physically can’t move down far enough to reach, then you will have to physically change things to allow it to reach — lower the Carbide Compact Router in the mount.
So are you saying Carbide Motion doesn’t allow lowering the bit in jog mode to the same level as the BitSetter? I’m trying to understand what’s restricting jog mode (excessively in my particular use case).
Interesting, Will, I’ll try lengthening that. It’s set at 95 mm in CM, but I’d estimate that from the top of travel (from the point it waits, when it backs off the limit switch) it travels down 109 mm before it crashes the bottom of travel (it’s happened a few times). I’ll have to measure more carefully, but I think it’ll need it to go to about 104 mm.
Eric, the McFly is about 1" into the router. Is that an issue? I want that bit to be as deep as possible into the chuck without bottoming out, since it’s got such a large diameter, to minimize its leverage on the system. The carriage isn’t crashing bottom when doing the BitSetter, if that’s what you’re asking.
If physically dropping the router still doesn’t get you to the board, another option is a shank extension adapter. I am only running a single layer of MDF on the bottom of my S3XXL. Even with everything as low as it would go I could barely reach the surface unless I had only a little of the shank inserted. I didn’t like that so purchased an extender. I got an AMANA one from tools today and it worked for what it was supposed to do. I was worried about leverage but just took real light passes and had no issues.
looks like you are at the bottom physical limit of the Z axis. If your cutter shank is into the collet 1", and your router can be lowered 3/8", It looks like you can reach the spoilboard.
I would lower the router first. Then bottom out your Z axis, raise it up the amount you think you will remove from the spoilboard + a small amount, then drop your tool to touch the spoilboard.
