I think it might be a z travel thing, not sure.
Yup. After my first, router-replacing, test design, I read the description and realized the focal range is only like 10mm. There’s no controller or “test module” with the laser I got. I’ll have to figure out how to focus it.
This was my test mount. The clamping one in my previous post is the one I’ll actually use (I think… Haven’t tried the laser other than just proving that it works)
I built a little drawing robot and attached a laser to it, but the SO3 is so much more rigid.
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Here is a mount I designed and printed for my spindle that I can easily slip on and off. I don’t like having the permanently mounted one, it seems to get in the way.
The ring is tight and has a gap in the back to slip around the connector and hoses.
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I have a k40 CO2 laser that was mentioned. It’s a great little laser that can cut through up to around 6mm plywood or acrylic. For what it is I can’t fault it, but the bed is only 8x12", with no way to tile, or fit anything bigger than the bed.
If you’re only interested in laser engraving things, I’d definitely recommend the j-tech option or similar.
If you want to cut small objects like keyrings, plaques, coasters etc then the k40 is a great option, I have paid it off several times over in 6months or so, and I don’t even run a business
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Ok, will do…it should arrive in a few months…
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Here’s the NEJE laser mount design files if anyone else wants to go down that road.
Pic is a link:
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@neilferreri Whats your take on this https://uk.gearbest.com/laser-module/pp_009558584217.html
I haven’t received my new Ortur Master 2 yet and I’m already looking at bigger. This says its 15W output but it does not give any input figures so I don’t know.
I don’t have much opinion other than I don’t believe the output.
I’m just a couple steps ahead of you because I got a laser a week ago. I haven’t had time to properly test it. I don’t think any of these things will cut much… You’d want a CO2 laser for that.
I also don’t have a good way to ventilate, so I’ll have to think about that as well.
What are you planning on doing with your future last assortment?
I’m using a 20 Watt version that looks the same as yours. It has 4 pins connector on its top end. Here is how I have mine connected:
Pin 1 - Connected to +12V Power Supply
Pin 2 - Connected to Ground/Power Supply
Pin 3 - Connected to PWM pin on the C3D board
Pin 4 - Connected to Ground on the C3D board.
I hope this helps. If you need pictures, please let me know.
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The one I purchased from Amazon was rated as 20Watt output. Comparing it between my 1600mw laser on my SnapMaker, and my CO2 laser, the true output is probably 12 to 15 Watt.
Yeah, that’s what I figured. Its a bit of a lottery. If its just for engraving then the JTech way is the most sensible I guess but its really costly especially after kitting out the Shapeoko with all the toys.
I intend just to do engraving no plans for cutting. mostly small things and mixing it up with hybrid projects. My setup is part of my business so its all about micro manufacture and batches so the faster the better. Space is a premium so for now the Shapeoko/ laser hybrid is the way for me.
With regard to ventilation, I already have an enclosure I was thinking of installing an extractor maybe rip the guts out of a cooker hood. Maybe a blastgate at a y connection. One branch to the shopvac another to the external extractor and then connect up to the regular dust hose on the Shapeoko or an adapted one.
I suppose the trick is to make the transition from routing to laser mode as seamless as possible.
So until I get my ventilation sorted I’ll just have to use some PPE
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On fume extraction to the outside world. Its probably a good idea to to include inline HEPA and charcoal filters so passers by don’t get gassed! 
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So it seems there is quite a bit that can be done to improve the efficiency of the Ortur (or any) Laser. First thing is a DTR-G-8 Broadband Glass Laser Collimation Lens https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YihUnPpqmGY
and also using Air Assist -https://makerfreedom.com/air-assist-for-beginners-laser-cutting/
This guy has gone all out and has turned his basic Ortur Master 2 into something else, great stuff.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YihUnPpqmGY
Thanks. The HOW is not the issue. I’m working on a PCB to make connections neater. Mine has four pins as well, but the fourth looks like it’s a temperature output signal. If I wanted, I could hook it up through another MCU, but I don’t know that I’ll bother yet.
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Would the temp monitoring just be used for safety as in cutting the power? or does it have some other purpose? Regulating power output maybe??
You could do that with another microcontroller and a relay or something. Some NEJE lasers are sold with little pre-made circuits that just display the temp… The bare laser just shipped faster.
Do you have a datasheet or source for the reason to do that? It’s not connected to the GND pin on the laser. I was planning on:
12V to +12V on a 12V 5A PSU.
GND to Ground on 12V PSU and to ground on Carbide controller.
PWM to Pwm pin on Carbide controller.
°C left not connected unless I later decide to read temp.
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Yes, I also don’t understand why you would want to short out the temp signal to ground.
@neilferreri have you seen the NEJE laser wiki http://wiki.nejetool.com/doku.php
it mentions “NEJE 12V LaserModule Tester V1.0 will be released” I believe its this;
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001097232962.html
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I would imagine you’d want it to be grounded so there is no reading at all.