Going through a youtube video on creating a file to flatten a spoiler board and had a question about two of the settings.
Depth per Pass was set @ .100"
Max Depth was set @ .070"
Does this look valid ? I would think these two would have to be either equal or Max Depth would be a multiple of Depth per Pass
First foray into this hobby so pardon me if I am making a mountain out of a molehill.
Thanks, Bill
For sure max depth should be greater than depth per pass. It does not have to be a multiple, the CAD tool with make a thinner last pass to reach the exact final/max depth.
For surfacing a (MDF) wasteboard, and unless it’s completely bent/crooked, I would use 0.04" per pass or less, program 3 passes (e.g. max depth 0.12"), run it, pause it after the first pass and inspect whether the endmill has reached everywhere, if so stop the job there, if not let the second pass run, pause again and check, and if there really are spots that have not been touched, let the third pass run. That would be surprising, 0.1" is a LOT of material to be removing to flatten a wasteboard.
You want to make sure all spots have been surfaced, but at the same time minimize the amount of material you are shaving off (because you’ll want to re-surface later, and then you’ll be happy you did not take too much away the previous time)
Julien:
Thanks for the detailed reply.
Now to set the Sweepy dust collection boot to the right height and my Dust Deputy configuration should capture most of the MDF particles.
Bill
@72begin something to keep in mind is that the ‘depth per pass’ is the largest amount the endmill can take in one pass. This is more related to the tool itself than the job. The ‘max depth’ is is how deep you want the machine to cut in the selected area.
So in this instance you do want the max depth deeper than the depth per pass, but it may not always be the case - like if you only wanted to take 0.02" off the top of a job, your depth per pass would stay 0.1" and your max depth would be 0.02"
I agree with Julien that 0.10 is too much. I just flattened my spoil board and used a 1" Whiteside 6210 and used 0.010 and pocketed the table at 0.010. The front was not quite cutting so I rezeroed and ran the gcode a second time. Now my spoil board is flat. I had just upgraded to the HDZ and used some Amazon 123 set up blocks to tram the router mount. The front was quite high so I used about 8 wraps of alumnium foil 1/4" wide by 2" and that brought my router mount down in the front. So first check your router mount for level right and left and then front to back. If you do not and flatten your spoil board and you get ridges you need to tram the router mount. You only need to flatten the spoil board a little at a time. You can always rezero and rerun to get rid of any deep cuts in the spoil board. You do not need to remove all cuts in the spoil board but you can if you want to.
just an alternate means…
When I needed to shim my xxl, I purchased a few of the blade type feeler gauge packs. Dis-assembled the packs and used whichever blades/shims I needed. The blades ranged from 0.0015" to .05"
Very accurate, and will not pinch through.
or maybe…“alumnium” is more durable?
.
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