In longer multi operation jobs I tend to machine an X and Y reference edge onto the stock in the first op so that I can come back and validate the X Y have survived after a re-initialisation, either from a power cycle or a stop of the toolpath. That’s saved a few workpieces for me.
I work almost exclusively with plywood. I get great results by FIRST cutting a “contour” cut using a 90 degree bit at a depth of .02. This is deep enough to cut the fibers of the wood on the surface. THEN I use my compression bit to cut out the piece. Works great.
Also, I have had great results with “Whiteside” bits.
Good luck.
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Great idea! First with any cheap bit a pocket around the contour +1mm, and then cut the clean edges with a finishing whole depth up/down bit.
That matches the way I cut my stock. I like to cut thick plywood like 1" thick. With one run sometimes the bit gets stuck, and that is usually a disaster. Just not too long ago (thanks to your patience, William…) I learned to define a pocket around the edge of the project what should go layer by layer*, cut the pocket down to the plane where the tabs need to be, and then cut the contour. But that left always one of the edges not nice and clean.
That trick will get clean edges: pocket 1mm wider than the contour, and then the real contur full depth with the up/down bit.
*sometimes, I could not figure out yet how to fix that, the router cuts the pocket in a way that it first cuts one round the whole depth, risking again the bit to get stuck, and then the next round instead of cutting one layer first and then the others. Might be if we use an upcut bit for the pocket the order of the cuts (layerwise / deep cuts) does not matter that much since the chips are always brought up instead of pushed down where the bit (I sometimes used up/down-bits for those projects, I just don’t remember whether plain upcut bits also got stuck) can get stuck, so if we / I use your way with the pocket first with an upcut bit, and the real contour then with an up/down bit that will be nice!
TY!!!
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