What causes controllers to fail frequently?

[goto (yoshimi goto)]

We are currently waiting to hear from support, but would like to gather information here as well.
Thanks.

On my SHAPEOKO PRO XL that I purchased this past February, the Y homing switch LED on the controller is now constantly lit.
The LED on the homing switch itself is not lit and responds normally when a metal object is placed close to it.
I also contacted support and had the board replaced by warranty because the LED on the controller lights up even though the homing switch is not connected to the controller.

The replaced board worked fine for the first 30 minutes or so.
However, after a while, the Y limit switch LED came on as well.

Is it possible that I just happened to receive a board in poor condition, or are there any other factors that could cause such a malfunction?
Also, about a month before that, the X motor output failed and I had the board replaced.
More to the point, after purchasing and connecting the Carbide3D VFD spindle kit, there was a problem with it not working properly, followed by motor failure and homing switch failure.
I think it may be a coincidence, but if there is a problem in my environment of use, I must change it.

Finally, everyone at carbide 3d has been helpful.
I live in Japan and am sorry for the shipping costs to c3d company and wish I could be able to self-resolve as it consumes me a lot of time.

[avetrano (ANTHONY VETRANO)]

Have you checked the actual supply voltage to make sure it is correct for the machine. Use a volt meter and see what it is. If you are able to keep the volt meter on the circuit without any danger of getting an electric shock you can monitor the readings while the machine is being operated and see if the supply voltage is causing any issues.

Anthony

[Emmess (Matthias Solga)]

The controller certainly is the weakest part of the otherwise excellent machine. The customer service is excellent working it out. The last controller I got was personally tested before sent to me, works now for some weeks.
And as Anthony said replace the power supply too.

The thing is: it is easy to install, and also after warranty days are over not expensive to replace. Replacing it with another controller is almost impossible, at least for me. Any open source controller need a vast amount of work, what at the end of the day costs a LOT of work time equals money.

When I last looked around there is no fool proof way to connect everything to another controller, and continue working with CC / CM (software again is very good!)

I looked into Masso controller, there again is no fool proof way to connect it, AND it is highly recommendable to change the step motors, a lot of work, very expensive (versatile though, but do I need versatlity? I do not), and after a lot of time invested the outcome appears uncertain at all.

The recent controller has one very big advantage: connect everything, and it works. Period. Set up is a breeze. PWNCNC recently prepares to sell a Masso kit that -as they say- seaml3essly can be connected to major CNC machines like Shapeoko. 1.: will see about that. 2.: still very expensive.

So I recommend out of own experience to stay with the controller, knowing it is not necessarily the strongest part of the machine, and do not hesitate to contact the servive team. It gives me also some peace of mind to have always a controller set as quick replacement in my drawer. $120 do not scare me.

Also the Zero-switches, although having no-contact ones is outstanding, have the tendency to break, what gives some funny mix of signs. It is my impression that when one of those switches break they also damage the controller board. So do not hesitate to change those switches. Again the customer service team is second to none working that out.

[goto (yoshimi goto)]

Thanks for the advice.

The outlet is approximately 99V AC, 60hz as measured.
The DC voltage from the adapter is as shown in the picture, i
s this normal?

I am measuring on the board because the connector on the adapter is a 4 pin with a shape that might short out when measuring.

On the board, we see 24V for motor drive, etc., and 5V for what appears to be digital I/O.
The Y homing switch terminal with the problem also looks normal, with two 24V and one GND, as do the other homing switches.

Currently the Y homing switch is in the way and initialization cannot be performed, so it is difficult to measure the voltage during operation, but I will inspect it in detail.

[goto (yoshimi goto)]

Thanks a lot for all the info.

From my own knowledge I am aware that it is difficult to use with non c3d controllers and it seems best to continue using this board.

I had never heard of the possibility of homing switch deaths involving the surroundings, but it was a blind spot.

I will ask support for their response and proceed to diagnose the failure with an eye to power supply and homing switch failure.
It is also important to retain replacement parts.