I had the bitsetter wire come loose at the splitter board (woops) and the HDZ ended up crashing the bit into the new bitsetter instead of politely stopping on contact. Both are solid pieces of kit, so neither broke… but I’ve had to do a bunch of thing to my machine to get it back to working nicely.
In case I’m not the last person where this happens I’ll update this post as a checklist for what I had to fix/check
The router came up half an inch in its holder, and the bolts that hold the router in its clamp were loose; retighten needed
The whole X assembly bolted up and rotated; the V wheels on the Y rails on the front of the machine need to be retightened and checked for damage as there is a lot of play there now
A bolt that holds the X motor onto the HDZ came lose (and fell out shortly after) and had to be retightened; checked the other 3 bolts as well
Since various major components got stressed, need to resquare the machine
Retighten the bolts in the coupling between the Z motor and the Z worm axel
I think Will is trying to say that in the future press the bit setter button to test if it is working by observing the red light go on before proceeding. Once bitten twice shy.
You do not explain how the wire came detached in the first place, my wire is under the Shapeoko, the connection is inside the controller box and really I don’t see how it would be pulled out without realizing it. You accidentally pulled on the wire and you did not check to see if the connector had been pulled out?
I don’t know exactly but the splitter is floating (will tie it somehow now) and the cables into it are not super solid (will likely also add some tape or something)
The spliter board does seem an oversight not securing it in the instructions from C3D. The connectors have silicone or something on the back side of the board but since it is not secured I wrapped electrical tape over the board. I wear belts and suspenders. I did not want any shorting of the board since it is just floating inside the controller cover.
Yes I thought it was odd that the little splitter board was just floating inside the enclosure. I was careful when I place the cover back on but definitely something that should be clarified and I would suggest a rubber boot for the board, in the mean time, I will follow Guy’s recommendations and carefully open the cover and put some electrical tape on the board before something unfortunate happens.
Edit: Wouldn’t securing to the enclosure cause issues when you remove the cover?
Yes, no instructions for taping it to the cover. Mine is loose, but connections are secure.
I DID note, that one of the wiring connectors DID NOT want to snap to the new circuit board.
Might need to note to insure that connection is fully made by slightly pulling on the connector.
Applying the board to the cover will be problematic. Removing the cover will require a lot of slack in the cables. As stated I just wrapped my board with electrical tape to prevent any shorting of the board to the enclosure or controller. I overlapped the tape to make a cacoon with tape overlapping making an envelope.
