Usual preface, I’m with PreciseBits so while I try to only post general information take everything I say with the understanding that I have a bias.
First, I have to agree with Gary here. Need to know the tools and and where you’re getting the settings from for a specific answer to your question.
That being said most of it depends on geometry. I’ll give some examples below. Although, in general “V” cutters are not going to be bigger max diameter = stronger/faster. Like for like, at the same cutting depth, they will have the same mass and strength from tip to cutting depth.
All the below assumes everything else in the tool is the same other than shank size and the specific geometry feature being discussed. We’re also assuming that no other limit is being hit.
Tip size:
The diameter of the tool at the tip will greatly effect how fast you can cut with it. This is due to multiple reasons from raw material left in the tool, to surface speed, to flute volume (room in the tool to hold cut chips). Tools with “infinitely” small tips are also “infinitely” weak, 0 flute volume, and 0 surface speed. Basically the bigger the tip the faster can feed.
Helix:
This is the twist of the flute in the tool. This changes things in multiple ways too as the greater the twist of the flute the more shear you will get but the closer the flute are to each other reducing the amount of material left in the tool.
This also changes the force direction and the flow of the chips. An up-cut tool will have the least force and flow the chip up and out of the material. A down-cut will force the chips to the bottom making a harder time for the tip where there’s less flute volume.
There are also 0° helix tools (sometimes called straight flutes). These increase the cutting forces as the entire length of your cut is engaged at the same time.
The helix is basically a mixed bag and depends on the rest of the geometry and the material being cut.
Rake:
This is the angle of attack of the flute. The higher positive rake you have the less force it takes for the cut. But the weaker the edge of the flute. So more rake will allow more feed until you have too weak of an edge for the cut/material.
Flute volume:
As mentioned before this is how much cut material the flute can hold before packing. It comes at the cost of tool material though so it’s a balance of not more than you need being better and allowing more feed than too much or too little.
Tip style:
Some of the common versions of these would be flat/fishtail (not truly flat or it couldn’t plunge), corner break, radiused (bull-nose), and ball-nose. These are have varying effects on the forces, tip rake, chip form, and tool strength. So it’s a mixed bag feed wise. Assuming again that everything is “like” it would still be dependent on material. If my hand was forced I’d rank them most to least feed as corner break → radiused → fishtail → ball. This is mostly due to limits of flute volume balanced against weakest part of the tool and chip form.
There’s more than just these but that’s some quick examples.
Some other things to check for when comparing “V” cutters that could effect feeds:
Spade style cutters:
They look like a “cone” with half the cone ground away (hopefully at an angle starting before center). Then the edge is ground on one side the the other side is a different angle that doesn’t actually cut. They are typically low rake and 0 or low helix/flute volume. They are often confused for 2 flute cutters too which can make it more confusing.
Type of angle:
In general most of these will be listed by their included angle. However, they can also be listed as the draft or half-angle. I’ve seen places that swap them depending on intended application.
Hope that’s useful. Let me know if there’s something I can expand on or help with.