Z axis not working in middle of a cut file?

So, latest update. I changed out the motor to a much bigger one, and it works.

My feeling is the mother board isn’t putting out the current needed to drive the smaller motor on the Z axis (no idea why, just isn’t) I did try putting the y1 motor on the z axis first to see if it was the motor and nothing changed.

Put the bigger motor on and it works. The bigger motor does get a lot hotter than the smaller factory ones, but it works… So for now we are in business again.

Thanks for everyones input and ideas to fix it.
David

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you can get little cool fins for cheap on AliExpress or Amazon…

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Just saw them, thanks for the heads up.

I’m thinking of changing all my motors to these upgraded ones, as they run so much smoother. But I do use these CNC’s for production, they work hard for a little machine so a bigger motor may help my needs.

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Did you measure the current at the motor to see if it was within specs?

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No, I don’t have the tools to test that. All I know is 2 of the supplied motors wouldn’t retract, but the bigger after market one did??

I have a suspicion, just a suspicion, that you inadvertently corrected an electrical or mechanical issue during the motor swap. I’m no stepper motor expert, but with all things being the same (driver, drivetrain, etc.) I don’t think a bigger motor by itself would correct this low power issue. You may have a loose electrical connection, that for the time being is corrected, could be something like a bad solder joint on the board itself or bad/intermittent piece of wiring. Glad it’s working and hope it stays that way.

Dan

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Maybe, but it took 2 motor swaps to correct it. I do agree though, it’s electrical. I rewired everything both times, and it just worked on the bigger motor, which could be complete coincidence.

Either way it works and didn’t cost much but time and a few dollars to fix. So Its being put to work! :slight_smile:

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If you completely rewired both times (as in new wire, new plugs, etc.), then if it croaks again I’d really look at the pins on your control board. A bad solder joint can be really hard to trace and can work very intermittently. Even a solder joint that “looks” good can be bad. Time will tell, but glad it’s working. Funny story, I had an old VW Jetta that had weird turn signal “abnormalities”. They’d work, then they’d get “stuck”, then work again for months. I finally tracked it down to a bad solder joint on one of the legs of the blinker relay. Looking at it you could barely tell the solder joint was bad. A touch with a hot soldering iron and it was cured forever…or at least until I sold that car to my boss, but he never mentioned the issue either, haha!!!

Dan

yeah, i only changed the wires going to the new motor, as I had to splice in the clip, but i pulled it completely apart, checked everything and put it all together (using OEM wires) again. I just wanted to make sure the connections where good.

I personally think the motor just wasn’t getting quite enough power to go up, it seems strange that a bigger motor can, but maybe its slightly more efficient. maybe the solder joint like you said was a little bad, dry… who knows. I’ll leave that for the engineers. :slight_smile:

as a helicopter Pilot, having weird stuff happen, then to never see it again is just something that you learn to accept…:slight_smile:

I’m ex-military aircraft mechanic, civilian A&P, now aerospace engineer and “weird stuff” is maddening to me, but it happens.

Dan

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