Calling All Makers: Carbide Community Competition #1

What’s the timeline for this competition?

@UnionNine

February 18th.

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Just ordered some cutters. What are the prizes?

@atrueresistance

Jorge has something in mind,…
I was going to listen for hints so as to make the prize have some personal significance.
Did you win last time?

I did not, there wasn’t enough time last competition. I like this one it gives me more time.

Its Throwback Thursday! Im sharing the Hardwood Lego bricks file and toolpath settings below, maybe you can use it for something:


I never thought this quick little video would have 70k views!

legobrick job.mcf (1.1 MB)

wood_lego brick settings.tps (2.1 KB)

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Saw a nice video with you in it @Apollo @8:49 in you guys did a great job :slight_smile: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6g9eTP5H1Q

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Do you happen to have an .stl of your Lego Bricks?
…or how do I open the files above? Neither Carbide Create nor Aspire seems to recognize them.

.mcf is MeshCAM.

.stl on GrabCAD: https://grabcad.com/library/lego-brick-2x4-1#!

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Fusion Link Sadly, I think I need to square my spindle a bit more. :frowning:

Broke a bit, that is why you get more than one. :slight_smile: Made it all the way to the back side before a problem happened. Does a cutting feed of 10 in/min with ramp set to 10 in/min and plunge set to 5 in/min seem too fast? .01" maximum roughing stepdown and .01" step over with the Dewalt set to 27,000 RPM with a .0393701" bit.


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Your feeds seem conservative to me.
I usually start out 50% width and depth and .001" per tooth per revolution with a small bit, but yours is TINY :slight_smile:
Nice job too.

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@atrueresistance

What cutter did you use?
I see a picture of very small endmills,…

OpenSCAD for creating any size brick you might want:

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I think I have to have a go at this this weekend. But what to make?? The only prize I want is for the touch probe to be realeased :wink:

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Overall it turned out really well. The legos fit perfectly with each other as well as real legos. The wood i purchased from the local store. I should of used some higher quality hard wood because the pine had issues tearing but it worked. For work holding I designed holes in the wood and just bolted it to the table. Was very sturdy. This also allowed me to flip the wood and mill the other side and the cuts would line up perfectly with no effort. I hope you like! Hint Hint :slight_smile:

Material: 3/4 inch pine
Cutters: 1/4 2 flute end mill, 1/8 4 flute end mill (purchased both cutters from Amazon)
Design software: Fusion 360
Measurements: http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-LEGO/step2/The-measure-of-LEGO/
Machine: Shapeoko 3
My CAD/CAM File: http://a360.co/2kQGlmd

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Fair play - you have more patience then me. Cracking job!

Sneak peek of the test I made today for my entry…

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Hmmm. Very curious. Maybe I see the edge of bat wings?
Cant wait.
Well I didnt know I could see your deleted post for 24 hrs. :slight_smile:
That kinda gives it away LOL.

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LOL I didn’t know that either. Oops!

I’m not bad at making things, but I suck at being mysterious!

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My first attempt at making Lego blocks. Carved with .250 and .125 endmills as I won’t have a 1/16" on hand until later today… but I found that while the 1/8" won’t perfectly duplicate all of the original Lego detail, it carves more than enough for it to work and the extra material left may actually help it’s durability in wood (not to mention how much less machine time there was using larger endmills).

I liked Apollo’s idea of using pen blanks (because exotic woods can be acquired fairly cheap as blanks and I may want to make some colorful sets in the future), so while I didn’t use a blank this time, I had the carve fit in a .750"x.750"x6.000" space.

Back:

Front:

I do have something a bit more original planned for the competition, I just need to find the time to to do it by tomorrow…

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