Calling All Makers: Carbide Community Weekly Build #1 Closed!

(mark robinson) #1

Carbide Community weekly Build Competition #1

We have been talking in another thread about a weekly competition so here it is!


Theme: Box or storage of sorts

Material: Scrap

Machine: Nomad or Shapeoko

Tool: Your choice

Required Info in your Post:
Photos! The More the better.
A) Materials used
B) Cutters
C) Design software used to create your project
D) Machine used

…And these additional details I would think would help earn votes from the Community but are not required:
E) Work-holding
F) Finishing
G) Sourcing of supplies is often very helpful.
H) Concept Sketch
I) Machining Time
J) Carbide Create .C2D file

Voting will be done with the heart, the post that gets the most likes wins.

@robgrz Rob Grzesek Said carbide3d will provide the prizes.

The winner each week will start the challenge off for the following week so be ready with ideas.You will get to decide the theme/rules/tools/materials and whatever

The idea here would be somthing simple (its only a week) and somthing most people have on hand ie scrap/scrapwood/pallet wood would all make great weekly choices.

This weeks build is from 3/8/17-3/15/17 (wed-wed) post as many projects as you want.

(mark robinson) #2

Im starting the challenge off with a simple box i created in carbide create out of 1/2" scrap hardwood flooring i have laying around.Here is the .C2d for it weekly#1 box.c2d (8.7 KB) I used a 1/4’ endmill 60ipm speed 30ipm plunge and DOC of 0.045 per pass

Getting in some Zelda time while i wait…

used rockler t-track and clamps for the hold-down

I used a round over bit on the router table to clean it up some,Still need to sand and finish,more pics to come :)…
Sanded and finished with matte polyurethane

(Apollo Crowe) #3

If your looking for a liner detail for your box, I had some good results with the Adhesive backed Cork Drawer liner today.
You can get rolls of this at Home Depot.

I managed to machine just short of the adhesive, and did the final cut out with an exacto knife.

You can use Double sided Carpet tape on the paper backing of the roll, just level your wasteboad first.

(Jason Zielinski) #4

Poplar cut with Whiteside Machine rd2100 solid carbide 2 flute down-cut with the default speed and feed in Carbide create for ‘soft wood’ with the makita set at 4.5 ish.

Quick design in Carbide Create, had to think about the inlays and cut two sets. The second set I added a circle to cut to round over the inside edges of the hex. The outside cut on the circle cut mostly air but then hit the edges that needed round over, it did tear a little but I am happy for a scrap box. The bottom receiving side, the inside corners are not sharp angles so it needed to be compensated for in the top.

Used a shorter board I had, I fixed it to the Shapeoko XXL by putting masking tape on both the piece and the waste board and using super glue on one side and activator on the other. The machine time I think was 6 or 7 minutes, I am never any good with keeping track. As a side note id love to see a CSV log of carbide motion, start / stop times with file name. Seems I always remember to time jobs in the middle of them.

Still need to adjust my machine some, its obvious trying to fit the two pieces together it fits a lot nicer one way, if you rotate it there are some alignment issues.

(mark robinson) #5

Looks very nice,is that 3/4 stock? How deep were the pockets? mind sharing the file? I also have some ajustments to make.

(Joshua Hume) #6

Incredibly simple small cylindrical storage for desktop or wherever, using scrap wood - some leftover 3/4" pine in this case - and any size of PVC pipe, depending on what you want to use it for.

CAPTION: I made the shortest one and largest one for this contest. The short one goes in my toolbox to keep little bottles from bouncing around and disappearing, the tallest will hold wrenches on my work table.

Workholding is achieved with tape. Since this is such a simple shape, it’s trivial to mark the workpiece bottom with a ruler to ensure you don’t cut into the tape and gum up your endmills…

CAPTION: note the markings. I use Nitto tape, which is great stuff.

I sized the caps, in the C2D file below, for 3" PVC. I tried to leave a bit of room for glue. I use hot glue, which works great on PVC for non-pressure related applications. I cleaned the PVC with a little acetone to make it look nicer. I probably won’t ever bother to paint it, but it is definitely paintable, and can create a nice, finished look, see below.

Note that PVC varies pretty widely in thickness, depending on what’s happened to it during its time on earth. If you want the caps to fit tightly, you’ll want to measure and adjust my file to your own purposes.

CAPTION: this is so loose it falls right off. Since I’m planning to glue it, that doesn’t matter.

CAPTION: same cap as above, but in this pipe it’s a tight enough fit that I have to push it very hard to persuade it to go in.

It’s possible to take this idea REALLY far, as I did with this next one, which I made shortly after I got my Nomad. It’s definitely overkill, and kinda pointless, but I had fun doing it, and learned a lot of basics from it:

Here it is unloaded:

CAPTION: as you can see I tried to make each hole shaped exactly for its intended object. Worth trying if you’re new to CNC, if only to realize not to bother with such silliness (learning what NOT to do is a big part of any new skillset).

CAPTION: I suppose if you wanted to, you could make an enclosed, canister style storage.

Feeds and Speeds are all in this Carbide Create doc. Cutting out two of these from 3/4" pine took 19 minutes on my Nomad, using a straight bit from C3D.
89mmPVC endcaps.c2d (7.1 KB)

(mark robinson) #7

Such a cool idea! Thanks for sharing :slight_smile:

(ray) #8

used 8/4 white oak that I got for free {leftovers from my supplier}
Vcarve pro for software and 1/4" end mill for cutter. Had to flip piece to cut full 2" { now have cutter with 2" flute length on order}
over all height is 4", cut the heart twice then resawed 1 in half for lid and bottom of box. 1/2" 90 v bit for v carve of “love”.
I will run the leftover inner piece through my bandsaw and slice into probably 4 pieces and v carve something on them.
Finish is Minwax waterbase stain and h20 poly.
Machine time was less then 35 mins including v carving.
All done on my shapeoko XXL.

(Apollo Crowe) #9

Nice wood stack, I think we need a new thread just for showing off our future projects. :heart_eyes:

(Anthony) #10

It may not look like a box yet… but trust me, it’s going to be one. :wink:

After flattening and running the toolpath simulations for the top:

The “scrap wood” I am using for this project is a twisted board of Bloodwood (appropriate enough for a box shaped like a skull) that I came across in the clearance bin at Woodcraft. $25 of wood for $2! :smiley:

…so twisted in fact, that even cut down into 6" long chunks, it still had a significant warp to it. So I milled it flat:

Oops, those tabs aren’t going to do anything. Backside of lid. The holes serve two purposes, alignment for flipping the piece over and magnetic closure when complete.

After the rough pass:

Finish pass video:

After the finish pass:

I’ll update this post as I go along.

(Pete) #11

Here is a quick project I did. I wanted a pencil/pen holder in my shop and wanted something that would fit on a windowsill. I also wanted to use up a pile of 1/2 red oak scrap that I had laying around from another project. I wanted it to have a hidden dowel system for assembly.

On to the details:

Material: Scrap Red Oak
Machine: Shapeoko 3
Tool: 1/4" 2 flute End Mill
Design Software: Everything was designed in Carbide Create and run through Carbide Motion

Work-holding: I used hot glue to hold all of my pieces. I like using hot glue because it is cheap and holds well. When its time to remove the part you can pry it off and scrape away the excess.

Speeds and Feeds: I did .125" depth of cut on all paths. Feed rates were around 50-70ipm.

Finishing: I will be final sanding it tonight and then I will stain it and spray a coat or two of lacquer. I will add a final picture once it is fully finished

Concept Sketch: I will add this when I get a picture of it.

Machining Time: Machine times were roughly 2 minutes for the top and middle layers, and about 4 minutes for the bottom and 1 layer file.

Files: I have attached the .C2D files as well as the .egc files that I used to make this.
Pencil Cup Bottom and 1 Layer.c2d (8.5 KB)
Middle Layer.egc (26.8 KB)
Top.c2d (8.3 KB)
Middle Layer.c2d (8.3 KB)
Top.egc (25.8 KB)
Pencil Cup Bottom and 1 Layer.egc (86.8 KB)

The top file was incorrect to get the dowel holes to line up. You actually need to cut the holes from the bottom or relocate them to the correct spot on the part so you can flip it. I just ended up drilling a couple 1/4" holes by hand because I ran out of scraps.


My pile of scrap pieces

Cutting out a couple of the “Middle Layer” pieces

Pieces stacked around 1 dowel to show how it is assembled. Note that the dowel is hidden when assembled for a cleaner look.

Final product

I started with a rectangle and circle for simplicity. The nice part is you can modify either path to come up with some creative shapes. I might make another one with some different shapes when I get some scrap built up.

Let me know what you guys think and if you have any questions!

(ray) #12

Nice… what bit did you use for this?

(Joshua Hume) #13

I used a 1/8" square end mill from Carbide 3D.

(mark robinson) #14

The last box showed my machine needed a few ajustments.I think i have it squared away.Here is a pic of the corners i was getting.

I tightend the Eccentric Nuts and the belts and now it looks great.

So this is the start of my second entry,Here is the C2d for the box in 3/4 stock 1/4 endmill and the C2d for the logo 1/8 endmill.
weekly boxv2.c2d (8.7 KB)
cclogoweekly1v1.c2d (2.6 MB)

Did some lite sanding and added the Carbide logo,used a roundover bit on the router table to smooth over the edges


Sanded and finished with matte polyurethane.

(Joseph Hinton) #15

Keep in mind, I am a super newb to CNC, only had my Nomad for 3 weeks now with no prior experience. That being said, I make coin rings as a hobby and for a little extra side money. I decided to try out making a little ring box with some scrap wood (I also used some grey wood stain that my sister gave me and I really don’t like it, wish I wouldn’t have used it).

A) Materials used: Scrap wood, leftover resin, grey stain (bleh).
B) Cutters: 1/8" end mill #102 (I currently only have to two sent with my Nomad)
C) Design software used to create your project: Carbide Create
D) Machine used: Nomad
E) Work-holding: Low profile vise

I don’t even know what type of wood this is. My dad made our dining table, it was too tall, so I cut the legs a few inches. The blocks have been sitting around waiting for me to do something with them.

Here’s the bottom cutting out.

I also have some craft resin sitting around from Michael’s, so I cut out “RING” on the top to ad a little something. Unfortunately, I don’t have a pressure pot, so there were a lot of bubbles in the finish. If I ever made these to sell or gift, I’d get a pressure pot setup.

Final product. It fits just perfect and keeps shut nicely. I considered adding a couple magnets, but it didn’t even need it. I may try to make more of these, and make them much nicer to give with my rings. Not sure yet though.

What’s a coin ring? Here’s a recent one I made from an American Gold Eagle 1/2 oz gold coin.

(Luke) #16

Hi Guys

I’m going to pull on your heart strings for votes :wink: I’m getting married in a few months and as a surprise for my wife to be I was making a memory/keepsake box that I will give her on the day.l

I’m waiting on some stain to arrive and it needs a light sand in the letters. However here is a sneak preview…

It’s been made completely on the shapeoko - the top and sides are Sapele the bottom is Iroko. Each piece was machined to size then planned using the S3 - not cut. Then the the joints were cut out. From there the sides were glued together. I put the whole thing in the S3 and planned the top and bottom, then cut out a recess for the base. Glued in the Iroko then planned the bottom and top again. The top was cut from a single sheet then machined to size and then V cut using a 90 degree bit.

I used a 1/4 mill bit for all the edges and joints, a 25mm bit for the planning. I did all this in Fusion 360 and CM on my S3. The wood was all rough off cuts bought in bulk and I worked around the sizes I had. I used hot glue to mount the pieces.

I need to finish it with 240 grit now and stain/wax but this has been delayed. However the finishing touch will be 5 photos inside - one taken on each of our anniversaries, the 6th photo will be from our wedding day - each one a year apart.

(Chad Howell) #17

Try using a wire brush that isn’t too stiff for the letters to get that fuzz out. I do a lot of engraving and this is by far the easiest way to do it I think.

(Luke) #18

thanks for the tip, I will give that a go.

(mark robinson) #19

Almost done just need to seal it.

(mark robinson) #20

Reminder for everyone to vote on the project you like using the heart icon.Also if you have a project post it no later than midnight tomorrow,we will also try to roll right into the next project soon as possible,the winner will select the project and get it started for the week.