Project Name: IKEA Hacks
Material: Pine, Zebrawood, and Walnut
Workholding: Camps and Double Sided 3m tape
I started this project this morning around 8am, and put one coat of finish (shellac) dry to touch at 5pm. I used zebrawood for one and walnut for the other. If I had to do this again, I would make the inlay pieces bigger for the zebrawood. The grain is just not tight enough to hold together while being machined so thinly. I did also use wood glue where IKEA does not mention it.
The base of this project builds off of an IKEA RAST 3-drawer chest.
The first thing we need to do is create some type of model/gcode. I am familiar with fusion 360, and used carbide motion to send the gcode. Please note the starting position in the screenshots.
1) Run 01-inlay pockets.nc to do the one side. Rotate your work piece, rezero and run again. Since we are looking to have a symmetric pattern we can get by with just 2 gcode files.
2) Run 02-inlay reverse pockets.nc to do the other side. Rotate your work piece, rezero and run again.
3) With the pockets done we can now move to the inlay part. Run 02-Test Cut for mating piece.nc to cut a single inlay piece. I used this to test and make sure depth went all the way through. Run 03-Mating Pieces.nc to cut a bunch.
Both run files don't use tabs, so make sure you have a good hold with tape or hot glue.
4) Depending on what you are cutting keep in mind some material is really really bad for your lungs. Zebrawood is one of the things. Wear protection.
5) Separate the inlay pieces, keeping track of the grain direction. I lost a few here.
6) Put glue in the pockets and use a flat piece of wood to hammer in the inlay piece. Rinse and repeat.
7) At this stage you will have all the pieces hammered in, but too thick. If you have a fancy sander you can use that. I don't have any of those fancy tools so I just used my Shapeoko with a .25" spiral downcut bit. I positioned the machine somewhere in the middle and jogged it down .1mm at a time until it was super close to touching the pine. I then just slide the board around while the bit was on to "plane" away the waste.
8) Once most of the waste is out of the way finish with a palm sander. I started at 120 grit and ended at 220 grit.
9) Optional: IKEA recommends using the nails for the backer boards that come with. I couldn't help but use a recently rebuilt air gun for this. Much faster and less risk of nicking your project.
10) Finish assembly according to IKEA directions.
11) Optional: Hand sand to 320 grit and apply some type of finish.
Hope you enjoy my IKEA hack. The files are attached, hope someone else finds this useful.
Edit: I forgot the files. All cut with .125" from Carbide3ddresser.zip (21.4 KB)