First 3d carving


(Jason) #1

Finally got around to doing my first 3d carving. Turned out good, and had no problems. Took about 4 hours to do the 3d portion.

question about the pocket carving portion. Does anyone have a problem with their clearing pass not going as deep as the finish pass. I don’t use a touch plate, but what I do now is zero my bit out by loosening the collett, and allow the bit to fall free resting on the wood. I then lower the Z axiz to the point on the bit I want it, and tighten the collett. That should give me exactly the same Z zero for each bit, but I always seen to end up a hair higher where the finish pass is. I’m stumped.


(William Adams) #2

There’s a difference in the lowered bit, and the bit held in place by the machine exerting a cutting force.

My suggestion for your technique would be to try it out a couple of times in scrap as a pair of overlapping pockets, then average the difference between them and set an offset Z zero by that distance.


(Richard Cournoyer) #3

Your method is not a very accurate one. Tightening the collet pulls the cutter UP, using cutters that are exactly the same diameter (0.0001) and using a torque wrench will help.

Best method: Reset your Z for each cutter (using the same spot). For wood, I use a 1mm metal shim (so I get a more consistent measurement, due to the wood’s irregular and soft surface.)

But usually, for a sign…Z height isn’t that critical. (+/- 0.004)


(Mad Hatter) #4

I bought an inexpensive set of brass feeler gages from Amazon and use one of those to zero my bit. I am currently using the 0.254mm thick feeler gage right now.