I joined Team Shapeoko 3 XXL

(Chris) #1

I got my Shapeoko 3 XXL last week. I’m really digging it. After going back and forth trying various modeling programs I ended up buying Vcarve Desktop. First thing I did was make my wasteboard and made various hold down parts on my 3D printer.

Then I got down and made my first sign. It’s about 5 1/2 x 7 1/4" Aldar 4 /2 hours print time. 1/4" roughing bit, 1/16" tapered ball nose for the finishing and 1/2" 60* V-bit for the text.

(William Adams) #2

Until I scrolled down to the image, I thought that you’d actually done a thing on your 3D printer which I’d been considering: actually making a spoilboard in sections, on a 3D printer — my idea was to dramatically increase the number of fasteners, basically a doubled up grid, and in-between the ones around a typical threaded fastener location would be smaller ones, and the spoilboard parts would be cut along the interstices so that they were fastened at each corner and you could remove say a small 2" x 2" section of the spoilboard and replace it as needed.

Something like:


(Stuart) #3

Welcome to the club! That’s a stunning first project! Mine was a square pocket with a profile cut around it :stuck_out_tongue:

There are plenty of good options but I think you made a wise choose in Vcarve, I use vectric Aspire about 90% of the time, for signs and most projects it’s can’t be beat. For the more mechanical projects or where I need several parts to fit together I use Fusion360, it has a lot steeper learning curve but free and very powerful.

Look forward to seeing what you make, share it all!

(Chris) #4

I think that is a nice idea but from what I have been reading it would be a nightmare to keep a level bed. Maybe aluminum would work for something like that.

(Chris) #5

I have been looking at everyone’s amazing cabinet designs and learning what is working and what some have said they wished they did different. I took all that in consideration and designed one that I think will work for me. This does not include the extra stuff like the lights, vacuum lines, etc. just the basic box. I picked up a couple of 3/4" sheets of Melamine and acrylic sheets today but will have to go back and get the hardware now that I made my measurements. I want to use the CNC to do as much of the work as I can like cutting the window pockets.

(Cam Peterson) #6

Did you design the 3D printed workholding parts yourself? Or do you have a source where you found them?

(Chris) #7

I wish I was that talented. I found a large free collection here

and more here

(Chris) #8

I miss read that. The above was for the 3D artwork. As for the hold downs I designed all but the top center one. I made the spacers at the center so you can torque them down without bending them.You can find the STL files here.

(Chris) #9

I am getting ready to build the box but the first thing I had to do was tear down the embarrassment of a bench I threw together just to test the Shapeoko out. Now that I know it works I took it partially apart, tore down the desk and started a new one with a 60" x 34.5" x 24" cabinet. I doubled it up to make a box in the back for a small shopvac and dust catcher. My goal for tonight was to get the Shapeoko on the top and away from the wife’s laundry area.

I made sure to take my time and level out the top in both axis. I can see how taking off the leveling feet stiffens it up before I even put the wood back on.

(Chris) #10

I want to use furniture Cam lock and nut connectors for the cabinet since they make a strong connection and make it easy to remove and reinstall any of the panels as needed. I bought 32 Furniture Cam Fittings a bunch of dowels and a jig to install them off Amazon.

I tested it out on a couple scraps of MDF and it worked perfectly. I’m sure I will use this jig for many other projects since I now own it.

The only thing I added was to use a 1/2" drill bit to taper the 10mm hole so the Cam nut would sit flush.

Now I am ready to start building this thing.