Rewiring, question for you guys


#1

What is the metal material that the motion controller bolts to? Is it brass?

How would you wire two carbide motion controller boards?

I would like to be able to switch back and forth from router to laser easily. The laser requires different firmware and I have two boards. Is it possible to run everything in line and flip a switch to toggle all the connections? Like some Frankenstein switch lol.

Also, what type of connectors are used on the board to connect the steppers?

Drilled and tapped an m5 in the top rail to hold the plastic track. Seems reasonably solid


(William Adams) #2

Per http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Shapeoko_3#Connectors

Connectors are Molex KK.[100] Spacing is 0.2", some connectors may require filing.[101]
digikey part numbers:[102]
pins: WM2303-ND
connector: WM2113-ND
Molex KK-series .100" pitch 2-pin headers[103]


(Jim Amos) #3

I am working to this end as well (dual boards with differing CAM firmware). I plan on using (3) push on-off 8-pole SPDT switches as a master controller selector. I have all the parts but I have yet to start on the wiring. I’m documenting my build in this thread. We should compare notes. Right now it’s less than a minute to switch servos, power and USB.


(William Adams) #4

The heat sink for the control board should be anodized aluminum (or raw, depending on when you got yours).


#5

It didn’t conduct electricity, which is why I was wondering. I’m thinking of making a larger piece that provides a heat sink for both.


(William Adams) #6

I dunno then — may be a change since I got my machine — ask support@carbide3d.com and someone who knows should be able to address it.


#7

Don’t count on anodized aluminum to be an electrical insulator. It only takes the smallest scratch, or wearing through the ahodize where screws are attached, to create a short where not wanted. OTOH, it is easy if you want electrical contact–usually a lock washer under the PCB pad or wire lug will bite through the anodize. In that case though, it would be better to preplan and mask around the screw locations before anodizing.

Randy


(Richard Cournoyer) #8

There is a piece of Kapton tape (which sort of looks brass in color, see photo) on my Aluminum rail (between the board and where it touches the rail), is this why you said Brass in your first Post?

PS A quality piece of Anodized Aluminum does not conduct electricity.

(Unless you poke through it)

R