Hello- I am looking for recommendations on a 1/32 bit. I have purchased two different Amana 1/32 downcut bits and both tips have snapped. I do not deviate from the default feeds and speeds set by carbide create. If you have a bit you use regular please let me know what it is and also the definition of the tool. Thank you.
Carbide Create does not have feeds and speeds for a 1/32" downcut tool.
What material are you cutting?
The community (well, really @Julien ) has worked up a bit on this at:
and we’ve discussed it a fair bit as well — one concern with a downcut tool is chip clearing — are you running a vacuum?
Yes. I have added the tool to my library. Yes I use dust control.
What are you cutting?
What are your feeds and speeds? DOC?
I typically don’t use a DOC greater than 60% of the diameter of the bit I am using. If I am cutting wood, I use an air blast to clear the chips - or more like dust at that diameter. If I am cutting aluminum, I add 99% IPA to the air blast.
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C3D does not have a 1/32" down cut bit. So if you buy one from another retailer try to get a 1/4" shank. Those seem stronger than the 1/8" shanks. As others have asked what are you cutting? I have a #122 1/32" bit that I have used for 4+ years and have never broken one. I have cut oak, cherry,walnut and mesquite. Since you are looking for or have a down cut bit remember that the saw dust is being pushed down and you may be recutting sawdust and that makes more stress on a very small bit. As @WillAdams often recommends try adding geometry to your paths. In other words try to avoid a 1/32" path. Make an offset to add a little so as the cut goes down you are making more than one pass so you have a bit of breathing room for the bit to extract sawdust and keep heat down. If you are breaking bits than slow things down and see if you still break bits. It could be the quality of the bits or you are just being too agressive with your F&S.
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I use bits that small all the time, mostly Kyocera from “drillman 1” on eBay. I cut mostly in hard woods but also in faux ivory composites, mother of pearl, silver and brass. The most important factor I’ve found to eliminate breakage is to be sure the machine is well trammed and that the spindle is true, i.e. perpendicular to the X-Y travel. Also use a high precision collet.
I was frequently breaking bits on my Nomad until the day I loosened the spindle fastening screws and tapped the spindle into better alignment checking with a dial indicator. No problems since then.
But, as others have said, you should include your feeds, speeds and materials for more precise feedback.
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Here are the speeds and feed datasheets for the three Amana 1/32" bits that I found on their website:
Solid-Carbide-Spektra-Spiral-Plunge-2-3-Flute-v41 (amanatool.com)
Solid-Carbide-Spektra-Spiral-Plunge-2-3-Flute-v41 (amanatool.com)
Note that the Amana feeds and speeds seem to be for very rigid, high power machines — adjust as necessary.
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My feeds are far more conservative than what Amana posts. Like Will said, they expect you using a Bridgeport or equivalent. I could likely go higher but I’m retired and time is not of the essence. I’m using a Nomad which I suspect is more rigid than a Shapeoko.
My standard settings for the 1/32" bit (from roguesystemsinc on eBay) are:
DOC: 0.50 mm (0.02")
plunge: 25 mm/min (1.0"/min)
feed: 200 mm/min (7.8"/min)
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Thank you all for your comments and suggestions. Not sure where I’d be without your help!!
Hello , Have you spoken to AMANA about this problem , I use Amana bits and have not had any problems .
I’m sure they will try very hard to remedy your situation.
Gregg
PROTECT YOUR DIGITS CREATIONS
Hi, I use 1/32 DC EM from Idcwoodcraft.com. It’s a 1/8” shank. Only problem I have is that they sell out quick. They have a calculator & a downloadable app on the website where you can get recommendations (very conservative) for your F & S. I believe they also a “if you break it guarantee, no question asked”; check the site. I’ve been using their stuff for years without issues. Hope that helps.
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