12mm Token fixture: rotational indexer

A friend of mine is looking to make some laser engraved tokens for a board game he’s playing.
Problem is that there are a bunch of tokens, something like 50 for a single set.

To make these in a reasonably efficient manner, I’m thinking I’ll make a circular fixture plate with a whole bunch of 12mm holes and some kind of retention mechanism.
The trouble of the retention mechanism is that these are going to be laser engraved. So whatever method I come up with has to be quick, easy, and heat resistant.

I’m just going to make some test fixtures to hold single tokens for now and whichever I like most will get integrated into the larger fixture.

For reference, here is the token sheet I’m working off of: https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000377722/design/2025-01-10_88f61c59b01f2.png

Don’t overthink it. There won’t be lateral force on the tokens,so you just need them consistently positioned. How much heat do expect to dump into the token to do the engraving? What type of laser? What materials are the tokens made out of? While the power density in laser may be very high in laser engraving the spot size is pretty small. To dissipate heat you can make your alignment jig so that the metal disk sits on a thick metal plate. Think thin mdf with through holes positioning the disk sitting on top of a 1/4 metal plate

You could do the whole process with carve and some colorcore (though I don’t know if that would be too thick ). I also have some two color thin abs for laser engraving ( and this will cut on a diode laser)

John

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I did a bunch of wooden coins for the Girl Scouts.
I used the CNC to cut circular pockets in MDF with a little cutout on one ends to get a finger through. Then I could just plop the coins in the pockets once the MDF was on the laser.

If he can’t turn air assist off on his laser you want the pockets tight enough / deep enough that the air pressure doesn’t move the tokens.

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I overthought it :sweat_smile:

Still I think I came up with a decent solution for my needs.

60 watt fiber laser deep engraving brass tokens.
There are a few things I’m trying to address with this:

  1. I suck at centering. So as long as I can reliably fixture the coins the same way in a repeatable way, I’ve won that battle.
  2. I suck at orienting. One of my pet peeves is flipping a coin to see the top and bottom misaligned. Having access to both sides of the coin in-situ, where I can just flip the entire fixture fixes that.
  3. Folks want overflow engraving that falls past the edges, so I need full access to each face. Nothing can cover them. (This is a secondary thing that might not be solved with this jig)
  4. With deep engraving we can dump a good bit of heat into the coin. There are a lot of ways to deal with this from air assist to clever pathing to distribute heat, but I still want my fixture to be metal.
  5. Fast. I don’t want to screw anything or have to faf about. There will be a ton of these tokens so even a few seconds a piece can be minutes gone in just fixturing.

All of this led be to one conclusion: flexures!

If I can just circular pattern a bending arm around the coin, maybe those arms can hold it in place.
The token blanks are likely punched and vibratory finished so they’re not entirely circular. Flexible arms would take up that slack so to speak.

And with more, smaller arms as opposed to fewer larger arms, we can leverage elastic averaging across all arms to better center the tokens even though they are not perfectly circular.
Another benefit of more arms is smaller overall contact area to transfer that heat. Basically creating thermal bottlenecks. Not necessary but nice nonetheless.

If we can keep the arm displacement and stress low enough, the arms should last ~forever. I’m shooting for less than half of yield stress on each arm. Modifying the beam thickness and length should let is tweak things in if necessary.

I modeled this in fusion 360 and ran a displacement simulation to get a rough idea of max stress on the parts. They seem to be very low and testing seems to corroborate.

Next up, I need to keep my manufacturing methods in mind. With these small features I am stuck using small tools. Small tools are in direct contrast to removing material quickly :smiling_face_with_tear:
I’ve had the best luck moving quickly with medical drill bits. A 1mm medical drill has a solid thickness and the Z axis is pretty darn rigid. Let’s try and use it as much as we can to define the small features and switch to a chunky 1/8” Endmill to clear the bulk after drilling.
Also worth dropping a little chamfer on the interior to help self center the tokens when inserting.

My test material is just a 16mm token. If it’s promising, this pattern will be laid out in a fixture plate proper. Unfortunately the clamping force very slightly deformed the token…I thought this might happen but it’s still a fine test.

At the end of the day, I’m just guessing and checking :upside_down_face:

Enough yapping, time for pictures:

Holder render


Study results


(deflection exaggerated for visuals)

and here is the result of the first test…a little deformed as expected.

To test this holder I pushed in a token on the surface plate, so the token and holder are nice and coplanar.
Then I picked up the holder and shook it to see if the coin would fall out.

To give a more real world test, I did this across 50 different 12mm tokens. Ideally this represents a good distribution of tolerances on the tokens.
It wasn’t until cycle 76 that the token fell out.

I think this is actually just the outer ring deforming so I expect a plate will do even better. If it’s exactly the same I’d still be ecstatic :sweat_smile:

And there we are, the first try seems to work wonderfully :beers:

Here’s an example of a test token engraved. Pretty simple all things considered :slightly_smiling_face:

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A couple of suggestions, try a more kinematic type positioner. That is two fixed points and one flexible point pushing the blank into the fixed points. For the flex point you can put a small oring pushing as a bumper. On the orientation, I think Kevin B had a thing in his two sided video about a mark on the side of the blank that was aligned to a reference point.
Again setting on a big heat sink will dissipate some of the heat

Alternatively, if laser engraving beyond the edge is important you can do the laser engraving first on brass sheet stock as a two sided job, and then cutting out on the cnc. This would change the rotational (and many part) problem into a two side alignment problem and a cutout orientation for the sheet.

John

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