Hey Steve, I wish I had more time with CC Pro to answer that question 100%, but I do not.
I do know the .STL files are at the final dimension of the model profile that was machined. The stl can be scaled.
If you imported the stl into CC Pro, you would need to manipulate it and position it correctly for the double sided machining and do your normal workflow inside CC Pro.
The file contains 2 STLs, one model with the top profile and a second STL for the bottom that’s flipped.
I can confirm that your file works perfectly in Carbide Create Pro. I imported it, scaled it down a smidge and tested it on some glued-up 2x4 scraps (my blank was 1/4" smaller than yours in all dimensions).
Now that I got it working, I’ll make another one in “real” wood and post the details here. I also need to get a bigger ball-bearing cuz this one is wimpy!
Maurice, I just realized that in your video you mentioned a longer pot life glue, but I don’t see where you said what that glue was. Could you? Thanks!
This was a super important step to slow down the set time, it’s painful to line everything up, it’s worse when your rushing to beat the glue setting up.
@Merick01, Found this illustration of warped spacetime. Looks exactly like your model. It would be cool to build one from blackish wood (to represent space) with light-colored lines. Not sure I want to plunk down $ for Wenge…
Right! Wedge is expensive, but I think Walnut could be a good substitute for a darker type of wood with white lines. Should be a good contrast. There’s a lot of possibilities here!
So much, that I’m going to make a puzzle out of it. There is some serious prep to pull it off though, to include surface jigs to hold the pieces together for the top/bottom carving.
I spent the morning doing the CAD/CAM work, this is getting built this week. Fingers Crossed on this one.
I’ll have 5 points of contact and it will be suspended on top of a walnut base, with the bottom curve cut into the base. I’m going to play with the tolerances more to get a little tighter fit to strengthen those joints for support.
I’m going to early release the model today on my Patreon and document the steps on it as I go, I hope that type of content will be more value added to the subscription. Trying really hard to quite my day job so I can focus more on this.
One thought on using walnut is that it contains sufficient tannins that one could use a traditional ebonizing solution (steel wool in vinegar) to darken it.
I bet my Ferric Nitrate would darken it up pretty well but would affect the veneer if you went that route. Painted VCarved lines after the profile after the solution is applied would solve that issue