3D printed workholding

[Quali3d (Nick S)]

When I first got going on my router my dad saw how I had set up for my first cut the next day, gave me a card time because I had things upside down, and showed me how to do it proper (as a former machinist)

I proceeded to 3d print custom clamps and things I thought I would need, used Bambu PLA-CF (red one in image) but I noticed it was pretty soft and deformed when I tightened it. I used Atomic PETG-CF next (blue) and it held up way better, so next I tried Atomic PLA-CF (black) to see if that was the issue, it too, was quite soft, but not as bad as the Bambu.

In the end, PETG seems to be much nicer for clamping, as it doesn’t give away when you tighten down your clamps

[murphytj (Tommy Murphy)]

I printed the Carbide3D hold downs on a Formlabs resin printer at the makerspace. I used the Formlabs Rigid 1000 resin. They work well. The cost of the resin used was about the same as ordering the hold downs from Carbide3D though.

[WillAdams (William Adams (Carbide 3D))]

Note that our clamps are designed to be flexible and used in multiple orientations.

That said, see:

Work Part Clamping (Many Of You Are Doing It Wrong)

Daily I see IG posts, YouTube videos, and post here of the unknown doing unsafe work, and quite frankly, you guys (and some gals) scare me. Maybe it is because you have not attended my Work Part Clamping 101 Class; well here is Professor Cournoyer’s quick clamping guide. These CNC machines are capable of creating a lot of force Especially the Shapeoko Spindles (1 plus hp). There is a right way and a lot of wrong ways to clamp your work. Some simple rules: (1) The hold down bolt should be clo…

[Quali3d (Nick S)]

Ah, but he’s missing the part where you must give the part a tug and enchant it with the age old spell “That ain’t goin nowhere”