80mm Carbide3D Spindle - Dust boot - bottom segment

Hi there,

My shapeoko 5 annihilated my bristled sweepy used with my 80mm Carbide3D water-cooled spindle. I pressed pause to sort a hose blockage and the dust boot came loose. Your machine doesn’t stop the endmill when paused so it’s obliterated the dustboot.

I need a new bottom segment bristled dust boot as chips are going everywhere with the non-bristled dust boot that came with the machine I’ve switched to in my current situation. I’ve gone to your website to buy it but I can only buy the 65mm version of a lower section dust boot [Link]

Your sales person running the chat on your webpage is telling me I need to buy this one:
[Link], and that you sell it only as a full kit so I have to buy the set. I’m not a new buyer though so this doesn’t make sense. I only ever use the bristled version. The other items in it are never used sitting on my shelf, so why would I want duplicates of items I don’t use?

The bottom section is the consumable part of this assembly being it can be destroyed by the endmill (like in my case), so it ough to have it’s own product listing (like the one I linked).

Question:

  • I do not want to buy them together as it’s a waste. Can someone at carbide3D speak with me here so we can get this sorted out?
  • Any UK-based stockist of this so I can get this ASAP? I’ll order direct from Carbide if not but just asking on the offchance

To illustrate the deeper nature of the sweepy i have compared to the product listing images in the kit link provided by the saleperson:


The Deep Sweep was developed as an optional add-on after the fact because the Sweepy v1 and 2 were originally developed for Compact Routers, and that was an expedient way to make them work well with VFD spindles when we started selling them.

My understanding of this is that we order the Sweepy as a compleat setup which arrives in a box — commercial real estate in California and Chicago are expensive so there is not infinite shelf/storage space and labour costs and the value of worker time are a consideration, as well as creating the potential for error, so opening a box, removing something from it, selling only what was removed, then dealing w/ the remaining contents by relabeling them is not only uneconomical, it creates the potential for a future error on our part.

Creating a new SKU for selling just the bottoms has a very long tail and runs up against the problems of the 80mm not selling as well as the 65mm, and it being unlikely to make enough money to justify adding to our storefront.

It may be that if you buy the 80mm unit you could find someone who has broken the clamp on their top and would be willing to buy it from you, but shipping is going to eat up any savings there.

Have you considered modifying your “Winston” (as we call the brushless bottoms) to mount the brushes on? I did that a while back for one of mine using a round plastic storage case:

but really, ordering the stock item and then storing the extra parts as spares is the path of least resistance — as my father (a child of the Great Depression) always said:

It’s better to have it and not need it, than to need it, and not have it.

It might be that the folks in Sales or maybe @Luke could speak to UK stocking/availability (isn’t there a UK reseller?)

1 Like

I’m surprised it doesn’t sell so well as the 80mm is awesome from my experience. Would never go back. Make it possible to max out machining times and the significantly reduced noise level is my biggest positive (being it’s in a house).

As a last resort, I had considered taking the brush knocked loosed from the obliterated dust shoe and doing as you mention (epoxy it to the winston). However, I would prefer to go try buy the unit as it was intended first.

It has a number of barriers to popularity:

  • more expensive
  • requires a 220V circuit
  • water cooled

Note that some folks have made various replacement bottoms — harvest the magnets as well as the brushes and make your own? Alternately, model in 3D and have printed by Shapeways or somewhere similar?

@tobwhy , those breaks look pretty clean without a lot of “chewing”. I’d be inclined to try to solvent-bond it back together. Here in the US the good wicking solvent is Weld-On 3, and I’m sure you have something equivalent in the UK. Or present it as a challenge to a local plastic model kit builder! :slight_smile: You have nothing to lose with those pieces at this point…

1 Like

@tobwhy, to add to what @Randy wrote - you could also use hot staples after solvent welding it to give it more strength where it needs it.

Or use a gel consistency plastic solvent and apply it on and through strips of stainless steel mesh over the seams to reinforce them.

1 Like

This topic was automatically closed after 30 days. New replies are no longer allowed.