Acrylic chips not clearing well & general cutting wisdom?

Usual preface, I’m with PreciseBits so while I try to only post general information take everything I say with the understanding that I have a bias.

Part of the problem with extruded is not just the internal stress (as mentioned previously) but that it uses a different recipe to actually lower the melting point (this is why they use extruded for thermal forming and it flame polishes better). The combination of the low melting point with higher internal stress makes it almost impossible to cut perfectly, without VERY material specific tooling (think “extrude acrylic cutter” not “plastic cutter”) or other equipment (air, vortex coolers, etc). Otherwise you are always either shattering the stressed material or partially melting it.

Keep in mind for the following that this is a tiny soft media tool. I’m intentionally trying to keep this vague due to bias issues and I don’t want anyone trying to use these numbers for anything other than the plastic comparison. To give you an idea I ran the same tooling from the same batch in some extruded and cast acrylic for testing. My test increased by 0.000125" (0.0032mm) chipload at each step. The extruded had a “tolerant” cut at one step 0.002" (0.051mm) chipload. The worst part of this is that, in our experience, even the same material from the same supplier might not run at that chipload again. This is due to the changes in processing of the plastic even with the same recipe. The cast material had a range of good cuts from 0.00275”-0.00325” (0.067mm - 0.083mm) (6 steps).

The geometry is where you can potentially get much better results in the material but cutter price starts to climb with extremely specific cutters. You can get a lot closer with plastic or soft media cutters as they have higher rake, different helix angles (lower for less “pull on the material, higher for more sear), more flute volume (places to hold chips in the flute), and relief to keep as little of the tool from touching the material. All of those things cost you in other areas though (tool strength, chip clearing, more stress to material, machine time, etc). So it’s always a fight between the economy of scale and the best tool for the application.

Yeah, coated tools in general I don’t like to recommend for plastics. It depends on the plastic, but you are always going to be dealing with a thicker edge slamming into the material (you coat the WHOLE tool). The advantage is less wear and possibly a smoother surface depending on the grinding wheels and coating used.

Are you sure this is PVC? Most of the stuff I looked at on their site is melamine, PET, or acrylic. The ultra high gloss is listed as “foil” on melamine.

Liam already got most of this. Basically a bigger upcut cutter for profile with a high speed clean up (not personally a fan of compressions but they are an option with pros/cons). There are a couple other specifics for multi material with deflection limited machining I’ll add though.

Won’t comment too much on the specialist tooling as again I’m bias. But it is possible with very high grades of carbide to make cutters that are both more aggressive and last. The blanks and processing material are more expensive though in addition to increased grinding time.

The first problem is that you have to find a feed and speed range that’s at least cutting both. Most likely it won’t be ideal for at least one though. Switching in this case to more aggressive tooling can help as they are both soft media. That will reduce the cutting force and get a “thinner” edge giving you a wider range at the cost of tool strength.

Even after accounting for that though you have 2 different materials with 2 different strengths changing the deflection. So once you are cutting anything but matching material(s) it will deflect more or less than before based on the strength of the different materials. That will end up slicing a very small amount off either the conventional or the climb side of the cut. This can leave a very poor cut or in the case of some plastics, melt it.

You can reduce the above effect by limiting deflection (shallower pass, less chipload) but you need to still keep it inside of the material range which is already limited by 2 different materials. In an ideal world we would cut it in a single pass keeping the load on the tool and machine the same throughout the cut. But we all have to deal with the limits of the tooling, machine, and materials.

Hope that’s useful. If there’s anything I can help with or expand on let me know.

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That’s great John, I always have to read your posts at least twice to spot the things I didn’t know, then the ones I didn’t know that I didn’t know :wink:

I’d be interested in what the downsides are on the compression cutters if you have time. I can guess that shoving chips together to the middle of the material is probably not optimal but is this bad when you have an open side cut as opposed to slotting?

Thx

Thank you John, i very much appreciate your detailed answer. Much of what you said, admittedly, is over my head right now… but between yours, and liam’s responses I look forward to coming back to this thread in the future when I have a better frame of reference for the concepts that you’ve shared with me.

For the UHG Gizir board, I’m not 100% confident about the composition of the PVC specifically, but they call it a PVC/PET sheet on MDF. It’s definitely not foil or melamine. They do have other products in this line that have Mel or foil but this is the UHG in black.

Eyeballing the board, it’s about 1/32 thickness of whatever the blend of PVC/PET is that they use, on an MDF core. I wasn’t real excited about using a compression bit on MDF… I was originally gonna try for the whole thing with a single upcut, but then I’m thinking I’d just cut through the top layer with a straight bit, and then just take the rest of the MDF and the bottom layer with an upcut. I’d like to avoid an extra tool change for a third cut at the bottom. The good news is that only one side is the appearance face for my project, so I should be able to plan my cuts so If one of the faces isn’t quite as nice, I should be able to face it towards the inside.

You mention more aggressive tooling to balance the differences in material - can you give me a specific example of that recommendation? Is there a certain type of bit that I should be looking at? If you’re not comfortable with an open recommendation due to perceived bias, please feel free to direct message me. Thanks!

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Not quite sure if that’s a failure or success on my part but I’ll file it in the Pro side for now.

Short version is that there’s rarely times that I find it’s necessary with proper feeds and speeds. Although, if those can’t be reached or maintained that would be a good reason to use one as a clean up where needed.

You’re right though that most of the problems are related to slotting (which is what they seem to mostly be used for). If you have an open side than most of the down sides are cutting force and geometry. They also tend to be more easy to break at the transition both from the meeting of the 2 cut directions and that most of the time more core has to be removed from the tool where they meet. The other option is to have an overlapping flute which is going to mess with chipload at that point. Add on cost and variations possibly needed for the transition point and it starts to leave a bad taste in my mouth.

No problem. Hopefully it’s useful either now or later. I might need to work more on the understandable part though…

PVC/PET mix should be a bit easier to cut in combination as it shouldn’t require quite as high of a chipload than straight PVC.

Assuming you are willing to deal with the multiple steps for the coding you could use just a single tool and modify you chipload and cutting depth per material.

I wouldn’t use a straight flute unless I had to as it’s the highest cutting force of pretty much and geometry. The issue is that unlike a upcut or downcut you are engaging the entire flute at the same time. This causes a very high sharp load to the machine and tool.

I’ll shoot you some specifics tomorrow. For everyone else though the basic things to look for are a higher rake, thinner edge and depending on the weakest material potentially a higher/lower helix. You also want a cutter the has relief and drop to keep only smallest part of the leading edge involved with the material. That last one does cost strength and potentially tool life though. If it’s someone you trust dealing with these kinds of cutters will usually be label for that specific material use. e.g. “soft media cutter”, “plastic cutter”, etc. Not listed as can cut it but that it’s designed for that material.

I did post some on geometry with some examples here Best practice for tiny endmills - #15 by TDA. Might help to understanding some of it. Although it’s in a completely different context. If I can get some time in the next couple days I’ll try to layout the basics in something more approaching english.

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