I’ve had my XXL for awhile now but had somethings come up and haven’t been able to use it like I wished. Now that I have some more time on my hands I’ve been playing around with it more and just cant figure out why it wont act right! Sometimes it cleans bottom out fine other times it wont. And sometimes leaves a step along the edge…and I was just trying my first double sided project just to take a swing at it…and good lord that was a mess! Dont even know where to start on that…especially once I turned it over it wasn’t lined up. I used 2 dowels like it said in videos but I don’t know. What I do know is I’m so frustrated to have this good machine and good software (vectric desktop) and I understand the software pretty good and can design stuff…but so frustrating to not be able to make them happen the way they are in the software!
What I’m really asking is there anyone around that’s on here that could maybe come out os let me come look at ur machine and see maybe how to fix mine…I’m in Navarro county and will be able to pay you for your time…just I need help! Anyone that will listen lol thanks!
Usually difficulties such as you describe are mechanical — things to check:
- belt tension — the Z-axis needs to be guitar string tight, the X can be a bit less taut, as can the Y-axes (but those twain need to have even tension) — discussion here: https://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Shapeoko_3#Belts specifics of my setup: http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=6765&p=53075#p53075
- pulley set screws — article on this here: http://docs.carbide3d.com/shapeoko-faq/shapeoko-3-how-to-check-the-pulley-set-screws/
- eccentric nuts for adjusting the V-wheels — see https://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Makerslide#Tightening_V-wheels
The machine is mechanically simple, but there are a lot of interactions which make it complex — just break down any action on the part of the machine, and look at which parts affect what aspect of a given motion and you’ll be able to troubleshoot it.
That said, having a working machine to look at, and a second brain to pick and a second set of experiences to compare against can really help sometimes.
Also when in plunges at times the whole Z bracket seems to move like tilt back on the v grooves and then come forward again once settled in. Is that normal…? I looked for a screw or something to be able to adjust so that it couldn’t tip but can’t find anything.
What happened on mine (with the z wobble) was the bolts that hold the router bracket to the z plate had vibrated loose. I had neglected to put the locktite on those when assembling. I took them out and and put them back with the locktite and … No more wobble.
That would be the V-wheel adjustment. Please let us know at support@carbide3d.com if you need any assistance with that.
Ok I sent an email to them asking what I should do to fix it. I’m going to look at belt tension today. So on the Z belt I need to lower it all the way then shim the motor and tighten then take out shims and it should be tight enough? And same on x and y shim thier motors also? I’ll look at the locknuts not sure if I understood the post on those but I’ll look and see what they r doing. Thanks
Also the belt tension will differentiate the measurments? Like when I flipped over my double sided project it could throw off the line up? Or what would that be?
Calibrating for belt stretch is discussed at: http://docs.carbide3d.com/shapeoko-faq/how-to-calibrate-the-machine-for-belt-stretch/
Thanks Will I’m going to tension the belts and then try that to calibrate it. Does it matter how far thought the 3 holes are apart as long as it is a right angle? And for the Z axis drilling steps…also drill 3 holes just varying in depths?
I watched Winston Moy video where he just loosened the motor on x an y and picked up the machine to tighten them. This a good method for XXL being iré much heavier?
Where do you go to change the settings in grbl?
A longer distance will be more precise — whatever your tools make feasible to measure accurately.
drilling the set of holes would be a material-efficient way to do that — I like to do that as part of the traditional diamond-circle-square: https://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Calibration_and_Squaring_the_Machine#Diamond_Circle_Square_Test
To adjust for the differing weight of the machines, I like to use a luggage scale. I think that technique only works on the machines w/ the older endplate style though.
Go into the MDI and send the relevant commands. Open the Log window to watch them be sent, and you can send $$ to get the settings to display.
Ok so I drilled three holes at 11 inches at both directions but to measure with the calipers the distance from the right side and left side on X axis was 10.75 and same for Y axis. I checked them the X is perfect 10.750 the Y was off 10.734. For now I tightened all the belts except the Z belt. Both Y belts were way to loose so thinking maybe that will fix it to come out to 10.750. Even tho the X was right on I went ahead and pulled it through little more and made little tighter. Good idea or not? I found the underside v wheels and they were way to low so slight turn on both those and no more wobble in Z! Thanks on that!
When I move the gantry back and forth by hand slowly its smooth but if pull little faster it kinda makes a grind noise and little studder step…this normal while moving by hand? Also when sliding the Z bracket left and right long X axis same noise and studder.
Didn’t get to check the depth on those 3 holes to see if they were accurate or not…I will tomorrow got family get together soon lol. But if it’s off how do you adjust the Z belt that’s the only one thats a little confusing on how to get to and what to adjust? Then I’m going to rerun the 3 holes and see if the Y was fixed with the belt adjustments. If not then I change the calibration in the MDI tab? Or something else to try first before changing the settings?
Sorry guys for all this but I really want to understand all this and learn how to really dial it in lol. Thanks for all the help and patience!
Yes, the odd jerkiness when moving by hand happens because the stepper motors function as generators. When they build up enough current to generate a pulse that makes the machine jump.