Anyone using radiused endmills?

(William Adams) #1

I’ve got a project which would be made nicer by having rounded bottoms on pockets — was hoping to avoid a tool change, so am considering this:

or more likely:

Wish it had an 0.0625" radius (but that’s just my idealism showing — obviously the difference won’t register).

Am I missing something, or is a 1/4" endmill w/ an 0.0625" radius (so that it’ll cut the same outer profile as a 1/8" ball-nose) not as useful as I’m thinking?

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You are not missing anything. That is what they are for.

I do not use bull-nose on the Nomad, primarily because I they are not as general purpose a tool. For clearing a surface or clearing out material, the wider flat cut of a square end is more economical, in my experience.

I have used them on larger machines (5-20KW spindles) for the type of work you are describing, as well as for blending/fillet work. I don’t think I have ever used a ball-end on a manual machine, but bull-nose tooling did get moderate use.

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(Vince) #3

I use their 2 flute 0.020s and 0.060s all the time. The bigger the radius the less efficient it feels like but can be very handy. While I don’t recommend 3d adaptive as a finish, careful setup with the right finish step height can result in a one and done toolpath.

Also if you want to leave a roughing toolpath on the part, a bull mill will produce softer lines. They also seem to get a better surface finish easier. Probably due to not having the SFM problem a true ball mill has at the center


(Paul Alfaro) #4

radius endmills aka bull nose are great. they remove the tip which is the first to chip/degrade/burn up. you lose the sharp corner obv but you effectively lose the weakest link of the endmill. i also really like the chamfer corner endmills, they’re less common but they have the same effect. one less tool change and a nice lil edge break in a second toolpath