Bearing / Router Replacement

I think it is time for me to replace my bearings given the wiggle I just noticed today. I am considering buying a whole new touter and then doing the replacement thing on my existing one so that I have a spare.

So, why is the C3D router $80 vs $130 for the Makita?

And would the ER-11 collets be worth the $150 version of the C3D router?

The Makita includes a bunch of expensive accessories which the Carbide 3D does not.

You can purchase the collets separately:

or purchase them from a 3rd party, Elaire Corp.

Thanks. And those collets are drop in replacements or do they need a
Different nut or something else?

The C3D router is a clone of the Makita. So the same nut works that came with either the Makita or the C3D router. As @WillAdams suggested the
Makes very good collets and they come in both imperial and metric. I have a Dewalt 611 and have the elairecorp collets and am very happy with them. The ones from C3D are good as well and C3D has very fast shipping.

If you rebuild your router you can get the Makita bearing rebuild kit because the C3D router is a clone and is identical as far as mechanical parts. Several people here on the forum have rebuilt their Makita/C3D routers and it is well documented. However at the prices for both the Makita/C3D router it might just be better to get a new one and throw the old one away. If you do rebuilt yours be sure to order some brushes. They wear out relatively fast and when they get short cause EMI and disconnects.

Because C3D sells their router there are more reports of bad bearings here on the forum. That could be just because C3D sells it but it seems to be a common problem for both Makita and C3D routers. I bought a used SO3XL with the C3D router and it had bad bearings. I bought the Makita because it had a Z-Plus with the 66MM mount.

I’m not sure the ER11collets would be worth the extra cost. In my opinion if you are going to start using different sized bits then you might as will upgrade to a spindle and VFD that will take a ER20 collet. Otherwise, you can find all the bits you will need in the 1/8 and 1/4 sizes.

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I would love to do the spindle but that’s a big step in cost if I stay with the C3D solution. I need a little more time on the machine to be able to rationalize the cost I think. Maybe I will ask for one for Christmas :santa:

Black Friday is right around the corner…

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I hear ya. Adding a spindle, laser, 3d printer… It never ends! :smiley:


I have no experience with ER20 collets. Lately if I order a new bit I try to get a 1/4" shank and not a 1/8" shank for smaller bits. So far I think it makes the bits stronger and changing the collet is not hard but I just hate replacing the collet. I recently ordered a 1/8" down cut bit from grizzly and it works great. The #102 is a good bit but it is upcut and I have to clean up the surface. Whenever possible I use down cut bits. I still use upcut for deep grooves because the down cut tend to pack the saw dust in. @WillAdams is always advocating adding geometry to make your grooves on a contour cutout wider to relive stress on the bit. That is good advise but I seldom use it.

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The Slim Jenny from Cadence is a nice 1/8 but on. 1/4 shaft. I have a similar compression bit because I also hate changing the collet although I can’t say why.

Yeah, doing a pocket followed by the final contour job seems to take 3 times as long. I adjust the contour start depth to be the bottom of the pocket but it still takes a long time. I have used that in harder wood recently though. Especially for things that are really important.

I ordered a new Carbide Router from C3D and the bearing/armature kit from eReplacementParts on Monday night. I live on the east coast and the C3D router beat the repair kit here. Much thanks.

Yes I know the C3D router is not considered user serviceable but it was worth $45 for me to see if I can repair the old and have a spare.


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