Binder inserts for manuals

So, it turns out that I have rather a number of manuals which would fit in the same binder as the A5 binder I got for my Mafell manual:

but not being in Europe, I can’t find a suitable magazine (manual) insert like to:

https://www.amazon.com/Baumgartens-Magazine-Organizer-WHITE-JT-9000/dp/B0007LRJHE

So, obviously we must make some.

Fortunately, there is some suitable plastic which a hair care product of my daughter’s came in, so first, we measure and draw things up.

The binder itself is 230mm tall, so we have that as a maximum, and the magazine insert I have is ~26.5mm wide, so start w/ that as a stock size:

While the two trim router manuals are ~210mm tall, so we draw in a slot a bit taller than that and a bit narrower than the 6.35mm of the exemplar:

We position it centered top–bottom, and 15mm off the left edge:

The posts are 83mm outside measure, ~76.8 to the inside:

while the loops are ~5.33mm interior and ~6.5mm exterior.

A few Boolean operations and positioning on centers we arrive at:

adding a rectangle for the perimeter:

and a bit of node editing:

and duplication and flipping and further node editing:

Next, Toolpaths.

Stock thickness is ~0.45mm, but we round up to 0.5mm and toolpaths are not simply a matter of selecting everything and applying:

Best practice is to select the inner features and assign one toolpath to them, then the outer and assign a separate toolpath (see file below). Unfortunately, Carbide Create won’t do the innermost geometry first which would be preferrable.

Stock is ~85mm thick per panel, so we double up:

And cutting went fine (recommend a suitable adhesive tape such as the double-sided carpet tape bundled w/ Nomads) using a #282Z (which may be my new most favourite endmill):

Attached: A5binderinsert.c2d (35.9 KB)

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Just to add a bit of knowledge to this posting. There are several different types of bindings for magazines, for numerous reasons. The photo has the two most common magazine bindings. The Hook magazines are what is referred to as “Perfect Bindings” and are intended to be kept on a shelf and used as a reference over time. The advantages include that the title and date is readable on the binding when shelved and when laid down, they lay flatter than other options. This justifies their additional cost.

The Model Railroader magazines are “Saddle Stitch Bindings” and, by philosophies of times long past, are intended for “true periodicals,” magazines read today and then disposed of. However, Model Railroader’s editors will tell you they desire that you to keep their magazines as references into the future. Saddle Stitching makes it harder to locate the target back copy. Other issues with Saddle Stitching include, as the number of pages increase, the inner pages become narrower. As addressed earlier, Saddle Stitch publications do not lay as flat as Perfect Binding publications. As their stacks get taller, the more likely you will have to alternate the bindings orientation to avoid the risk of “magazine slides.” Also, it is much easier to firmly attach those annoying segment inserts in Saddle Stitching, in Perfect Bindings they are simply “throw-ins” between the pages.

As paper weights, thicknesses, increase, the more likely Perfect Bindings will be required. Cost is significant between the two styles. When I was the editor of The Hook a quick check of costs showed that we could cut printing costs per issue by approximately 20% by switching bindings. Not an option for our purposes of documenting U.S. Naval Aviation history. Our printer used corn starch between the pages to keep them from “gluing” together. That annoying facet where two pages stick together. You will never feel that corn starch if you try to wipe the page. Interesting.

Thanks,

Rex

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Isn’t it amazing what you can learn in a forum? :thinking:

I’m impressed! :+1:

ISO 216 isn’t a European-only standard by any stretch of the imagination. It would be more correct to say “but being in the US, I can’t find…”

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