Hello. I make wood flags and have been struggling with trying to get my union stars as sharp as possible. I was give instruction to use the bit zero normally and then set z again in the middle of the union using the paper method. It certainly helped. What I do now is break the union up into 4 quarters and set z four different times to account for the various differences in the pine. I also surface my top. Anyway- is it necessary to use the bitzero to measure z zero before measuring z zero with the paper method? Do I need to initialize each time?
If you are going to use the paper method then you don’t need to set the Z zero with the bit zero. It’s not going to hurt anything if you do, it’s just that how ever you do it last will be what is used.
No, you don’t need to re-initialize. Just reset your z to where you want it. The machine will remember the x & y.
2 Likes
In the last few versions of CM when you set zero and the BitSetter is enabled the router will make a trip to the BitSetter. If you only want to use the paper method then disable the BitSetter in the configuration. Then you manually set zero with the paper method or the BitZero. No trip to the BitSetter.
If you disable the BitSetter you need to power off and reinitialize an SO3/4. When you initialize and then go in and turn off the BitSetter it messes with the controller internal coordinates. My understanding is that an SO5 is not effected by turning the BitSetter on/off. On the SO3/4 when you turn the BitSetter back on you should also initialize to get the internal coordinates of the controller synchronized. The internal coordinates are created when you home. Then when you set X Y and Z zeros an offset is made from the homing position. Turning the BitSetter on/off messes with that offset.
1 Like
3Bit Zero - or Bit Setter?
The advantage to using BOTH the Bit Zero and Paper method is that the Zero will make it easier to set a consistent x and y zero - and paper will give you a perfect Z. You could also get a consistent Z zero on the Bit Zero - but personally, I find paper to be best.
Bit Setter is helpful when you’re changing bits within your job - and need to maintain the Z-zero settings between bit changes. If your job is not using more than one bit, then the Bit Setter start up routine just wastes time…but has no other impact. I have found that the process of “turning off” the Bit Setter is tedious on my 3XXL (to reset it) and unless I’m running a lot of jobs in a row that don’t need it, I leave it on.
Gary
1 Like
Is it possible to update the parameters of the Bit Zero? I’ve noticed mine is off quite a bit. Over .015 in Z and at least that in both X and Y. For most wood projects the X and Y isn’t much of an issue but for fine detail with a Vee bit I end up always touching off with paper. Seems like if the device was working properly, it wouldn’t matter either way
1 Like
There is no adjustment, but the device shouldn’t be off significantly — usually when it is it is caused by flute geometry (use a probing pin) or the device shifting (drape the cord so tension holds it in place, in extreme cases tape it in place).
1 Like
I use a probing pen and physically hold the device in place while it is probing because I see it move at times. This is with the magnet on the probing pen. I’ll test it again today with a 123 block and update the amount of error.
1 Like
I did a test again with a 123 block and found that I consistently had an .008 error in X and .009 error in Y. Z was only off .003. While this isn’t really a big deal on a wood project might be on an aluminum one. Especially if you need to re-setup and recut something.
This topic was automatically closed after 30 days. New replies are no longer allowed.