I did a dumb. (I’m new)
I bought a facing bit that isn’t flush between the cutting edge and the shank.
Subsequently, I won’t be able to use bitsetter.
I can simply return the end mill but am wondering if there’s a way to make it work? I’m trying to level my first piece of live edge wood.
If your going to just level off the face, disable the BitSetter in Carbide Motion. Set your Z zero with a BitZero or paper method and run the tool path.
2 Likes
Just manually set the Z zero using the paper method. It’s not that hard and no reason to return the bit.
1 Like
I have an SO3 with a Whiteside 1" surfacing bit. It has a hole in the middle. So when I surface my spoilboard I disable the BitSetter and remove it so I wont hit it when surfacing. I purposely made my Spoilboard smaller than where the machine can reach so I dont leave a ledge at the back or left side. The paper method works for the surfacing bit.
1 Like
If you have something of reasonably consistent thickness, you can attach a larger ‘platform’ to the top of the BitSetter.
I had some 1/8" thick, 1" wide Al bar-stock. I cut off a 1" square and glued it to the top of the BitSetter, there’s no bit I would run on a Shapeoko that wouldn’t hit a 1" square.
The BitSetter only cares about relative differences in height, so making it taller doesn’t affect how it works.
3 Likes
For a 2" flattening bit with carbide inserts (3hp spindle) on my 5pro I just move the bit setter slightly off center of the bit when i flatten something so one of the inserts hits the button. It doesn’t take enough pressure to push the button down to cause any deflection. If you are flattening your bed then you need to move it anyways so not a big deal. Takes 3 seconds. Sometimes I’ll do the manual zero, depends on the situation. Never run into an issue with either method.
1 Like
This topic was automatically closed 30 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.