As a brand-new Shapeoko owner and a novice at using a CNC machine, would you experienced users recommend I get a BitZero to add to my machine? I have plenty of experience with modeling, 3D printing, and laser cutting on CO2 laser – but no CNC experience yet.
-M.
I was in the same position as you. I found it useful as a beginner, but it wasn’t long before my workflow simply didn’t need it anymore.
For example, Carbide Motion now can remember and set an X-Y zero for you. If you set that at a fence, then you don’t really need to probe the position of the stock - position it at the fence, then tell Carbide Motion to set the zero at that location.
For Z probing, I just use a spacer of a known thickness. Jog until it just barely passes under the bit, then you can set that as the current Z value. I use a small bluetooth keyboard for this, so I can move the Z axis without having to be right at the computer.
I haven’t used the BitZero now for over a year, at least.
The BitSetter, on the other is a must-have as far as I’m concerned. If the machine you are looking at doesn’t already have it, I highly recommend getting it.
The BitZero is useful for setting origin relative to the corner or surface of rectangular stock/the machine surface, or the center of a hole in a conductive material — folks doing metalwork, working in plastic, or using S4S stock usually find it helpful, while folks who use rough-cut lumber never need it.
Mark: YES.
One: the Z-axis is determined as precisely as it can get. Either on a corner or just on a surface, takes out the game with “pulling a piece of paper” BS.
Two: the X-Y- (or each separately) determination cannot be done more precise -and repeatedly reliable- than with that BitZero. Consider using the 1/8+1/4 inch straight pins, takes the uneven cutting surface out of the equation for a precise repeated positioning. Important for two-side-carving, and multi-level (is it called that way?) inlays.
I got a Bitzero V2 for my Shapeoko 5 Pro about 10 months after getting my machine. It pays for itself in the amount of wood it has saved me scrapping! I was reluctant at first and thought I could do without it but I’m glad I’ve got one now.
I agree with @Emmess - it is the most accurate way to zero Z on your stock or wasteboard, which is important for inlays and similar.
It is also the most accurate way to get the XY position of your stock and I have found this most useful when repositioning a part I have already machined for a second operation. In this case, accuracy is key.
I will also say that the Bitzero is great at getting a known XY position, but it does not guarantee that your stock is parallel to the axes of the machine. For that, you need a different approach (like bolting down a piece of sacrificial wood and then cutting it so you know it is perfectly parallel).
I myself cut a system of dog holes into my wasteboard - that gives alignment with the machine axes, and then the bitzero gives the accurate XY position.
I’m huge fan of both the Bit Zero and the Bitsetter. The accuracy they both provide is vital to getting things right when setting up your material and running jobs. I use Bit Zero all the time. I don’t always secure my material in the same place on the machine bed so it’s a fast and accurate method of setting the xyz axis.
Thanks to everybody for the advice! Hugely appreciated.
I use my BitZero often. You can use the paper method but the BitZero is quite easy to use and does not take as long to line up X Y and or Z. I would recommend the BitZero. They are not that expensive and if you have it you can use it or not but you have it.
My personal experience is that sometimes when I’m making several of the same thing, it really can be useful
but I still think for finding X and Y, if you really wanted to get accurate, you are better off putting your v-bit in and setting it manually
Always good to have more tools, but learn multiple ways
I would not recommend using it for the first month you receive your machine, even if you choose to purchase it.
We’ve seen too many people who do not learn how to set a zero in their machine because they only use BitZero. When anything goes wrong, they’re completely lost and often come to bad conclusions and/or blame the wrong thing.
Many people swear by the BitZero, but we never recommend that you start with it. It’s always worth taking a few more minutes at the start to learn the fundamentals.
Good advise Rob. I was on a support call for an unrelated issue shortly after setting up my machine and that’s what I was told. I manually set xyz for the first month and as insignificant as it may seem I did learn a lot by doing it that way.
It seems like such a trivial thing, but it’s been a HUGE support problem over the years.
Interesting, and understood. I’ll follow your advice.
@robgrz
Never thought about that…how important it is to understand that zeroing process. Excellent advice.
@MarkH
That being said, fortunately I waited for about a month or so after I had been using my pro 5 before I decided I wanted one and HOLY COW! LOVED it (love it)! I keep it plugged in and very easily accessible so I can use it for almost every single project I set up. Game changer for me.
Having the ability to do the XY corner in one operation independently of Z would save me a decent amount of time and may reduce confusion for people when they are using machine bed as their Z.
Now I have to do the full XYZ measure including the trip to the bitsetter and then do Z after.
I placed an alignment pin into my lathe and milled a 60 degree point on it, now I place the pin in the router and set X, and Y in the area stated in the job setup. I always set Z zero from the bed, I use a brass shim of.002 when I set zero as it is close enough to leave an onion skin to clean off. I am retired so I may have a few extra minutes to use on setup so time is not an issue.
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