Note: I’ve been working with support on my new Nomad 3 since I’ve received it. I’m on my 3rd spindle board and just received the entire machine back from the factory for repair.
Please take a look at this video of test cutting into 6061 aluminum. This is the default speed and plunge depth for a #102 1/8 end mill in aluminum according to Carbide Create. Each time the bit plunges, you can see the machine lights dim. Does your Nomad do this as well?
Hi there, I did try 2 separate circuits in the house. One that is dedicated 20A that runs other machinery (they were disconnected at the time).
I did include the power supply, so I hoped they would have tested it.
I was going to monitor the power from the power supply but since the plug is a bit funky, I didn’t want to open the machine up again just yet to get a good connection point.
Let us know about this at support@carbide3d.com — hopefully it will have been recent enough that there organic memory on the power supply having been tested or no, or a case note on it — let us know about the “funkiness” of the plug and we’ll include that in our calculus.
Just watched your video and it looks as I would expect from my own Nomad 3
for a basic plunge. You may find a more advanced toolpath would help such as
ramping in Create Pro or a shallow lead-in which Fusion can produce.
Your 102 cutter seems to have a lot of stickout which will be contributing to the
chatter we hear at the beginning of the video.
Ok, does your Nomad lighting dim if you make a straight plunge? I’m aware of advanced methods, this was to test. I’d hope in an extreme condition I could stall the spindle out and not kill the board.
No response from support yesterday. Hopefully I’ll hear something today.
Sorry to hear that. I have the nomad 3 and I’ve accidentally plunged straight into walnut wood to the point where the lights flickered and the spindle even stopped spinning almost and I’m certain I’ve done that at least a dozen times especially when I first got the machine 2 years ago. I have yet to kill the electronics so I’m not sure what’s happening to your machine. Hope they can do something for you!
I have some new components expected to arrive on Monday, hoping for the best! I am happy to hear that accidental plunges don’t typically kill the electronics.
Ive had alot of time with the nomad 3 both stock and modded, The lights dimming is a common thing on them when they take some bite. While unrelated to your board and electrical issues. You want a shorter endmill and a helix ramp into aluminum, You never want to direct plunge. Even on full size vmc’s Straight plunges are bad practice unless your peck drilling.
And there it is. Not sure how I overlooked that one! Thanks!!!
BTW… I’m still waiting to hear back from support about the homing issue. Sent a message on Monday and a few follow ups. Anyone you can poke there to help me please?
If you’ll let me know your e-mail address in a PM I’ll check.
But we can’t change a person’s position in the queue — it’s FIFO, first in, first out insofar as possible, since that’s fairest to everyone.
We’re still catching up from a long weekend where it seemed everyone decided that cutting something on their machines was the perfect way to celebrate President’s Day (I think Thos. Jefferson would have approved — bummed I’m not done w/ my lap desk replica yet), but we will do our best to get to all the tickets as quickly as possible.
Your experience is almost a replica of mine. Short version is, I’ve had 3 spindle boards now die on me in the same way (3rd one happened yesterday). Waiting to hear back from support for the most recent board failure but have done some digging, I posted about the details in this thread if you’re interested.
I can actually help here! This happened to me too. I discovered that the board settings for my machine was not set on the control board, all the config was default grbl settings. NOTE: if support tells you to run “$22=1” and try homing you might find that it will move VERY slowly and when it starts doing the X axis it will move the wrong way and crash into the side.
If you open the log window and run the “$$” command you will get the current settings, if you’re like me, you’ll find it’s the default values listed in the grbl docs here.
IMPORTANT: copy the current values when you run $$ into a text file!
So, to solve this I opened back up the back of the machine, plugged the power button connector into the old control board, plugged in the power and USB and connected to the board with carbide motion. (NOTE: make sure your old board isn’t on anything conductive if you do this!). If you run the “$$” command on your old board, you should see the correct config that needs to be set on your new board. To set each one it’s just a matter of running each line as a command like “$1=25”.
After doing this (and triple checking the values were correct again by using “$$”) I restarted the machine, connected, and was able to initialize as expected.
If you don’t have the old board, then you can probably save a round trip with support by sending them the current settings by running “$$”.
