Calling All Makers: Carbide Community Build Competition #6 starts now!

Carbide Community Build Competition #6 (6/27/17 – 7/27/17)
Rules: Entries should be completed during the build dates but if you have something you’ve recently created that fit’s the criteria please feel free to share it.

Material: Open
Machine: Nomad or Shapeoko
Tools: Your choice
Required Info in your Post:
Photos! The More the better.(We Love Pics!)
A) Materials used
B) Cutters
C) Design software used to create your project
D) Machine (and model) used
Additional details and extras aren’t required but might help in earning votes from the Carbide Community:
E) Work-holding
F) Finishing
G) Sourcing of supplies is often very helpful.
H) Concept Sketch
I) Machining Time
J) Carbide Create .C2D file or the file for software of choice
Voting will be done with the Heart :heart:button located at the bottom of each builders’ post. The post that gets the most :heart:likes wins.
Carbide3d will provide the prizes.
The winner of the Competition will start the next challenge off so be ready with ideas.You will get to decide the theme/rules/tools/materials and whatever

This build is from (6/27/17 – 7/27/17) post as many projects as you would like.
To all our past and future builders, Your builds inspire us all and help keep our community growing. Thank you!


Great weekend to share your stuff and maybe come out with a little swag.Nothing is too big or small its an open build.

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I had to quit smoking. I didn’t want to, so I made an ashtray, with my face on it. Just for fun.

As some people know, I like to practice sculpting in Artcam. I’m not too good at it yet, but that doesn’t stop me :slight_smile:
This is a straight on face, which is harder, but I’m making a crazy face, so it doesn’t matter much.
The Face Wizard is really easy use with a side profile, but that’s it. Once you start turning the head, it becomes much less automatic.
The ashtray is 3" wide by 5" Long, .75" deep.
I had bought a pack of 3 different hardwoods (Black walnut, Maple, and cherry) from:
It was very nice with no deformities, or knots.
This is Cherry, I beleive. It looks very close to the maple I have, and now they’re mixed up :slight_smile:
The .stl file for the ashtray was a gift from a friend. It originally had a pic. of what appears to be my American President.
We have all heard how “he likes to sue”. It’s not illegal to put someones face on something for art, and not for profit, and you can’t get blood from a turnip, but I wasn’t taking any chances :slight_smile:
I’m not giving the original file away, it’s not mine, but the one with my face is in the shared .stl folder Here:

A) Materials used- Cherry
B) Cutters-1/4", 3fl, EM, and 1/16", 2fl, ball endmill.
C) Design software used to create your project- Artcam Pro
D) Machine (and model) used- Shapeoko3 XXL
Additional details and extras aren’t required but might help in earning votes from the Carbide Community:
E) Work-holding- Carpet tape
F) Finishing- Burned with a small propane torch, then shellacked, then Howard’s feed-n- wax

G) Sourcing of supplies is often very helpful.- I get most stuff on ebay
H) Concept Sketch- A friend sent me a couple of .stl files of ashtrays.
I) Machining Time- About 30 minutes to set up and machine. Most of the time was spent in CAM.

I hope to see more contestants!
I have a lot of fun seeing what others are making.


Nice build Jerry,Thank you so much for participating in this months build.

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Just your weekly nagger reminding everyone about this months competition :slight_smile:

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Guess everyone is gonna let you take the win Jerry.

That just aint right!!!
An ashtray?
I knew I would get it eventually :slight_smile:
It’s not too late, folks.


Not a large or complex piece, but it started on the Nomad, and also included hand work and the lathe, so why not?

I needed an eyepiece clamp for my traveling microscope. The vernier scale is by 0.01mm and is 25mm long-- it covers 0.5mm-- and the magnifier for the vernier scale is a friction-wing fit in the holdr(standard Gaertner design–the holder tube has slots cut in it to make tabs). With a focal depth of about 1mm, it is tough to keep in focus when it is swung during use, and it tends to walk during transport in the case.

So I made a clamp.

Material is 5.0mm acrylic.

The tools used were 3.15mm and 2.35mm two flute endmills, both TiCN (titanium carbonitride) coated. Not the highest temp coating, but acrylic chips clear well from this coating. Both tools by Kyocera. Both running at 10KRPM in the Nomad with feed rate of 1200mm/min.

The design was done in Inventor. It is my preferred tool since I also use it at work.

I ran 1.0mm depth of cut for the larger tool, and left 0.1mm for finish cut and stopped with a 1.0mm skin oat the bottom for support. I ran the smaller tool for the finish and final clearing of the bottom. Tabs were left for support when the bottom was cleared. The work was clamped down to a High Tech Systems bed of holes baseplate with a file card underneath for safety clearance and vibration control. The clamps were hunks of aluminum from the scrap pile. The origin was set at the bottom. This allowed my to not worry about hitting the bedplate due to machine tolerance. The 0.15mm cardstock did get touched, but the tool didn’t go through.

Diameter of the center is 22mm, ans the holding screw is a 2.5mm. Here is the part and the cut simulation:

The material was a larger sheet than the defined stock, but I didn’t worry about it in the model. Plowing through this way it makes no difference, since the toolpath used (contour 2D) does surface entries only.

The final part (second iteration, since I didn’t have quite enough clearance for the screw in the first one) is

and artistic-like:

The drilling for the screw was done on my small (precision) drill press. It is pre-WWII, supposedly. It does the job well, though. I tapped by hand using a gun tap. In acrylic, especially in smaller sizes, if at all possible, tapped holes should be through holes and done with a gun tap. No jams and no breakage. The center piece was left in for support while drilling and tapping, then broken out and the edges cleaned with a three-corner scraper to take the sharp off and pretty up where the tabs were.

Machining time to this point is about 10 minutes, design time a couple hours, and hand work time about 1/2 hour.

Then I went to the lathe. I had a brass screw the appropriate size, so I turned a bronze head for it, counterbored for the screw head, tapped the bore, and loctited them together.

The assembled device:

and installed


Great project. You might want to edit your post though so that it follows the format for entry from the top post. If nothing else, I’m happy to see something other than @jdg3’s face over and over again. Scary stuff.

1 Like

I have just finished the part I am most proud of on my Shapeoko, so I may as well put it in here for all to see!

The clock is a wedding present for my Girlfriends Brother and his Fiance. My girlfriend and I designed the clock together, which was a lot of fun (I drove the software, she made the design calls!) we wanted something simple and traditional, but very custom for them as it’s a very special occasion. we took inspiration from a lot of designs, basically typing “wooden wedding clock” into google and using bits and pieces of designs we liked.



  • 1/4" Onsrud 2 flute straight Endmill (sourced from Drillman1 on ebay) - Outline of clock contour cut
  • 1/4" Kyocera 45 Degree Vee Cutter (sourced from Drillman1 on ebay) - All carving on face of clock
  • 1" flat endmill (sourced from local hardware shop) - Flattening out timber prior to starting job

Design Software: Vectric Aspire for Design, LinuxCNC for machine control/Communication

Machine Shapeoko 3 XXL, 1.5kw Huanyang VFD + Spindle, Dust Deputy + festool CT Midi

Workholding: Threaded inserts in stock wasteboard, Aluminium clamps made on the Shapeoko


Sourcing of Supplies: The real score here was the timber, which I picked up from a local guy I met riding motorbikes, his family has been in sawmilling for generations and he does it as a bit of a hobby, he supplied me with some beautiful local timber, and had stories from milling this exact tree… it was just pure luck that I met him and got this piece of timber.

As you can see in the photos the timber was quite cupped and needed machining on both sides to get it flat. the machine was great at this, I just drew a square the size of the timber, and set a 1.5mm (0.06") pocket, and let it go. when the cut was done, if it needed more, I’d just re-zero the machine on the top of the timber and go again.

Machining Time: Hard to say as the software was not very accurate, I would say approximately 1 hour of actual machine time, most of that was the tramming of the timber prior to starting the project, the V-carving and profile cut were maybe 15minutes max.

This is what I came up with for holding the slab of timber down, while still allowing me to face it:

This is taking the cup out of the timber, I had to take about 6mm (1/4") off each side to get it flat. Here I used the 1" Flat endmill, 70 IPM, 3/4" stepover, 0.06" DOC

Flat! (love that grain!)

Here I took a 5mm (0.2") cut on the profile, as the timber is very hard and chips easily, I planned to face a bit more off if the profile chipped badly, but it turned out to not be an issue :slight_smile:
The reason there has been another square pocket taken out the size of the clock, is that my original design had one of the numerals in reverse…D’oh! Luckily the timber was almost 2" thick so I could pocket it out and start again…
Note I have written down my G54 Zero coordinates, this way if I lose power or have an issue i can find the zero again, I used the centre of the clock as my zero, I measured and marked it prior to the job, as there was not a lot of spare width

Starting the V-Carving of the numbers, this hard timber cut really nicely on the V-Carving

Here is all the carving completed :slight_smile:
The steel scribe and brass-coloured brush are my tools for cleaning out the V-carving. I have found them to be the best way to get it clean and sharp

Profile/contour cut complete. No tabs used as I don’t like the machining marks they leave. You can also see my testing of the tint on the timber, I went with the second from the left

Ta-Daa… Finished product!!
(After 3 coats of wipe on poly, and sanding down to 320 grit between coats, and 400 on the final coat)
The black blemish on the left just by the IX symbol was filled with epoxy resin before sanding, and is smooth to the touch, and looks amazing in real life!

Clock file in CRV3D format - Suit Aspire/Vcarve software
:blush: Thanks Guys! :blush:


This is a project I did for someone the give as a wedding gift. Verry fun project from start to finish.
I first cut it from MDF to test the tool paths. And a good thing too, Their were some changes I needed to make on the outer border.

A) Materials- Cherry 12"x24"x3/4

B) Cutters- .25 flat end mill for clearing, .25 Ball end mil for the texturing, 60 deg. V for the lettering and a 90 deg. V for the other beveling, .25 flat for the cutout.

C) Design Software- Illustrator and V-Carve Desktop.

D) Machine- Shapeoko xxl

E) I use some aluminum 3/8 that i made at my job.

F) Finishing- Shellac- antique glaze

I started mixing shellac myself and will never go back to buying it pre mixed. It was a little intimidating at first but is actually easer than it sounds. I highly recommend it.
I spent about 2 weeks french polishing.

G) Sourcing of supplies- the shellac i got from []
( The tools are from carbide 3d except the V Bits. they are Whiteside from amazon. The wood i got from

H) Concept Art

I) Machine time was about 2.5 hrs all together.


Woah that is awesome! I’ve never used shellac before, I’ll have to try it out

Only a few days left,Please get your projects turned in if you have one.

Congrats @stutaylo

Thank you everyone for your participation.Stuart will be starting off the next build for us :slight_smile: