I have a 5 Pro with spindle. Can I cut custom designs from 4x4 (3.5"x3.5") stock? This would require a 3.5" cut depth.
I can’t really find clear answers on this as this appears to be right at the limits of the machine. Thoughts? Suggestions?
Thanks!
Yep.
You have 4.25" to the bottom of the z transom.
Working out the cut without hitting something will be the trick.
The spindle will be max high and the sweepy can not be used.
At 3.5 it’s pretty manageable.
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What are you trying to do. Are you going to cut a pocket in the 4x4? Finding a bit long enough might be a problem with retract height. I have one 1/4" OAL bit that I usually have to remount a couple of times to get it spinning round. Plus it vibrates and will loosen the collet. Maybe a 2 sided job if a pocket is required to go all the way through. Even then retract height and the 3.5" height might be a problem. You will just have to mount your bit and see if you can clear the 4x4 with the bit installed.
If a pocket is required maybe a hybrid approach would work. Cut your pocket maybe 1" on each side and then use a plunge router with a top bearing to clear out the rest of the pocket. Would be less risky. I recently bought these bits.
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Thanks!
I am cutting out a custom porch bracket. It will be a 100% contour tool path operation.
You bring up a good point. I could make it a 2-sided job and limit my cuts to 1.75" deep on each side. Having an extra long endmill to pull this off does make me a bit nervous because of the added risk of collision during retractions.
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If it is not 2.5D or 3D, but just a full depth 2D contour, what about making a router template out of 1/2" MDF or plywood and using a flush trim router bit. Then, you could rough the cut with a bandsaw or jigsaw and then finish with the router. If you are doing a bunch, it’ll be faster than the machine doing all of the cutting.
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I cut 4 sides at 1.75 deep.
Be careful to have the pole cut square at the same dimension, otherwise the flip causes offsets and effects the cut.
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This might help…
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I have not tried a 4x4 but I have cut allot of 2x8,10, and 12 on their face and 2x4 on edge with success. The main issue has been the moisture in the big box store boards. Not an answer to your question per say but advice from a broken bit or two because my feeds for what I thought was dry wood didn’t work out. I can imagine if I was doing what your are talking about I would turn the feed down and bump it up if needed in carbide motion.
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Which spindle do you have, the 65mm (1/4 or 3/8 collet) or 80mm? It’s MUCH easier to find longer tooling in larger diameters. So if cutting 4x4’s is going to be common for you, I’d go with the 80mm spindle and 1/2" tooling.
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One of the biggest issues with cutting something with a longer bit/tool, is deflection. The longer the bit the higher the deflection possibility. Rigidity is key. Smaller diameter bits woild have a higher deflection rate then a larger diameter bit. Deflection cant be stopped, but can only be reduced with any tool/bit.
Work arounds are making passes with your desired cut rate, while leaving some material for finish passes. Then reducing the cuts to reduce the deflection and improve surface finish. Wood is a little more forgiving then metal is, so may not be an issue for many of our fellow CNC mill workers.
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What bit did you use for this?
1/4 compression bit “jenny” from cadence mfg
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