Sorry for the delay. We were off for a while for the holiday but I had a lot of other commitments that prevented me from responding. Still catching up honestly so I’ll probably be brief (for me).
This is mostly due to setup and clean up. Air clears the chips and helps with cooling. Coolant helps more, extends tool life, and depending on the type helps with cut quality.
Depends on the workflow you want. I personally would have both available but I’d say do what will let you get up and running the easiest first.
No way that you are going to get even close to a complete list from anyone that isn’t already doing everything you want. I’ll help where I can but going to have to exclude bits other than if you have general questions about features or application.
Not sure this will work for a couple reason. I’ve never seen a saw for anything but ISO tapers (though I’ve never looked). If you found one this might work.
The specs are confusing…
In the “about” it says.
precision tapered bore is less than 0.005mm and runout off is Less than 0.01mm.
I’m guessing maybe that 0.005mm is the surface roughness? TIR is possible but not sure I believe them (see previous post and following).
Then in the description it says this.
Precision Tapered Bore: 0.01mm
Runout off: Less than 0.02mm
It’s also not a “real” 2.2KW spindle. From the tag on the spindle they are listing electrical power (220 * 6 * √3 = 2286W). They do actually have the other numbers we need on the tag. Power factor is 0.7 and efficiency is 0.8. that works out to 1280W (2286 * 0.7 * 0.8). I mostly point this out as I don’t really trust their specs. You’re probably fine with the lower power depending on what you want to do with bigger tooling. Though for bigger tooling in metal the 9KRPM min might also be an issue depending on tooling and what size you want to go up to.
Might also want to check if it’s a constant torque or constant power spindle. Easiest way is to ask if they have a power/torque/speed chart.
This depends on how high end you want to go. For any of the measured ones with a spec of 0.0002" (0.005mm) or less you are starting around $30 each. Lower the measured runout higher the price.
Honestly I’d just get a decent brand here even for over 3x the cost. It’s not worth having to doubt measurements or constantly deal with the good cheap ones eating batteries in my opinion. Even for my personal stuff I just bit the bullet and got Mitutoyo.
This would work but it would not be considered high end anymore. Would be an easier and probably acceptable for things with no alternatives though.