I have the Carbide 3D Router, and I’ve had bad luck with 1/8 shaft bits. At this point I’m thinking my 1/8 Carbide 3D Precision Collet needs to be replaced. I’ve had zero problems with the 1/4 collet, just the 1/8.
Breaking bits could mean that you have too much runout somewhere in the router OR collet, or it may be that that you are using cutting parameters that are not quite agreeing with using very long bits/stickout, or a combination of both?
If you believe that C3D collet is defective, I think you should contact firstname.lastname@example.org and let them know about it.
Do you have a test indicator you could use to check the runout with that collet and one of those endmills?
It might be worth comparing it to the runout you get with your 1/4" collet. Maybe the runout is the same (which would then point to the router itself), and the 1/4" don’t break just because they are sturdier?
1/8" endmills are quite fragile, and carbide very brittle — I’ve broken them by just manually pushing my machine against some workholding.
Feeds and speeds with smaller tooling require careful settings — I just finished a cut w/ 1/8" tooling on my machine and it went fine.
If you continue to have difficulties please post a .c2d file, generated G-Code, step-by-step notes on how you are securing your stock and setting zero relative to it and we will do our best to look into this with you.
I omitted some key information, the 1/8 shaft bits have been slipping. The latest was a compression bit, but the up-cut portion was all the was engaged. So the bit slipped, got pulled down and that is what led to the bit breaking.
The slipping is why I’m directing my focus towards the collet. I was not having any runout problems, I was even able to finish the job with this broken bit since it was the shaft that broke.
Yes, they are compatible, the C3D router is almost identical to the Makita. I bought the MRP-1250 and MRP-2500 back when I was still using my Makita (and C3D precision collets were not available in the store)
I would suggest to send an email to support about that collet of yours though. Also check this out, maybe “just” a tightening issue ?
I have found using two wrenches is ideal. This allows you to really feel that “monkey tight” vs “gorilla tight”. Using one wrench and the push pin on the router doesn’t give you a good feeling of how tight it really is, I think.
As my Grandfather used to say, “Too tight is broke” ha ha… A small 22mm wrench fits the Carbide router collet nicely. I was planning on making some wooden wrench grips for my collet tools. The cheap thin wrench I found on Amazon that fits the 13 mm metric router shaft has sharp edges. Does anyone know a better source for a quality thin enough 13mm?
The nicest 13mm low profile wrench I’ve yet found is the wonderful sand-cast Asahi wrench from Japan I have (it’s double-ended and also 11mm) — still kicking myself for not just buying the full set when paying shipping from Japan.
Nice in a different way (I really like sand-cast and machined tools) is the low-profile service wrenches McMaster-Carr sells — currently they’re sourcing from Martin: