I was idol for several months and purchased a new pc during that period. I installed Carbide Create 764 on the new pc as this is where I do all my designing. I’m retired and it is just a hobby/small projects. My Shapeoko 4 runs off a separate pc, (actually a Raspberry Pi). It was running Carbide Motion 565.
Are there any issues running the older CM 565 form files created on CC 764?
Prior to going idol, both CM and CC ran fine and rarely had any issues.
Today I tried to run a simple file and the tool paths ran wonky. The tool progressively and aggressive cut deeper over a very short distance…3-4 inches when I force stopped the motion. Could this be due to a conflict between the two versions?
If you haven’t run your machine in some time, you probably need to do a maintenance checkup - especially ensuring your belts & V-wheels are in good shape & tightened up properly.
Most likely causes of what you describe are usually due to mechanicals or mixup as to where the Zero point of the machine is set vs where CC’s Zero point was set when the G-code was written out.
I would agree with @Chaotica . You have some kind of mechanical problem. One thing can make your bit go deeper and deeper is it was loose in the collet and during cutting it gets pulled deeper and deeper and can cause you to lose steps and the path go off the intended line. If using a Makita/C3D router be sure you are tightening with two wrenches. C3D recommends using the stop button only to get the bit tight enough not to fall out but final tightening is with two wrenches.
So power off your SO4 and slowly push your gantry front to back and back to front a few times. Go slow or you will feel the gantry shutter because the stepper motors are energizing themselves. If that goes ok then push the router from side to side and back slowly and feel if you get any resistance or tight spots. If the mechanical feels good then try again on a scrap but be sure to secure your collet with two wrenches. Since this is an SO4 check all of your v-wheels. The 4 on the gantry on the bottom and the ones at the bottom of the Z are the ones that are adjustable. With the power off push on each wheel to see if you can move the gantry. If the wheel slips then loosen the bolt and adjust the eccentric with a wrench. Then hold the wrench so the eccentric stays in place and tighten up the bolt. If you do not hold the wrench the eccentric will move during tightening.