I’ve been considering getting the VFD for my xxl pro since it was announced, but felt like it was a luxury snd I probably didn’t need it. I’ve got the carbide router with the standard collet and I run 1/4” and 1/8” shank bits.
So far, I’ve mostly made larger plywood things, sometimes mdf and plexi, and I don’t cut aluminum. Cuts fine for most things at a large scae but as I’ve tried to get more precise with my cuts lately for some projects I want to pursue, (like making puzzle box components or attempting to v-carve) and I’m dissatisfied with the amount of runout of the carbide router that I have. V-bits and mc etchers have a very noticeable wobble to them, and it’s definitely affecting the quality of cuts.
The selling features of the CardvvVFD seem to be mostly power and noise reduction, but I already have a great sound enclosure and I’m not carving up metals… , so those features don’t interest me nearly as much as precision.
So with precision of cut and runout eliminationbe as the number one godo I go with a precision collet and a new router or do I drop the 750 on the vfd? Is there a substantial enough difference?
I currently have the z-plus. Will the HDZ Increase accuracy as well or will it have no effect? Does it make sense to get a VFD spindle without getting an HDZ?
The Z-Plus has less pulses per MM so it is not as precise as an HDZ. I think that the Z-Plus is not recommended for a heavy spindle. The HDZ can handle most any spindle. The spindles use ER type collets. The ER number determines the smallest and largest bit it can accept. The ER collets generally have a collet for each size bit you use. The ER type collets are more precise than the router collets you can get.
A lot of C3D routers have the bearings go bad. So take hold of your OFF router and wiggle the collet nut. If it wiggles you have a bad bearing. If it is in warranty C3D will replace it. If it is out of warranty you can buy a repair kit. You have to disassemble your put the new bearings in. Not too bad if you are mechanical.
The HDZ has more steps per MM to move a given distance which makes it more precise. Plus it can handle large spindles. One caution, you can take a mini truck and put a 454 engine in the front but the running gear is still a mini truck. So putting the HDZ on is not as bad as I just described but depending on your Shapeoko model the X and Y are still belt driven on The Shapeoko 4 so dont put a 454 in front and try to haul 10,000 pound loads. Even the mini truck can make a single load but if you do that every day it will break. The same for the Shapeoko 3 and 4. Great machines but just cannot hold up to heavy heavy loading. An occasional heavy load will work. You said you only cut wood so an Shapeoko 3/4 and an HDZ would be a good combination with a spindle. Just dont try to run production on metal and you will be happy.
If you have a Pro or HDM then an HDZ is a no brainer.