Chinese VFD help

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Hi all!

I installed a 800w water cooled huanyang spindle and a 1500w Huanyang VFD. Here are the current parameters

PD000 = 0
PD001 = 0
PD002 = 1 (potentiometer on board controls the frequency)
PD003 = 120.00 Hz
PD004 = 400.00 Hz
PD005 = 400.00 Hz
PD006 = 2.50
PD007 = 0.5
PD008 = 110V
PD009 = 15
PD010 = 8.0
PD011 = 100.00

PD014 = 12 seconds (Acceleration time)
PD015 = 12 seconds (deceleration time)

PD070 = 1
PD 071 = 20
PD072 = 50
PD073 = 100.00
PD074 = 0

PD141 = 110
PD142 = 4.0 amps (guide says 3.7 and the spindle is rated for 5)
PD143 = 2 (number of poles).
PD144 = 3000hz (intermediate frequency)

110v Mains, 110v spindle. When I turn it in it spins slowly and I get a E.Ao.A error which is guess is an over current error based on what I found? I tried starting it a few times and each time the spindle spins at ~100 rpm and stops shortly after.

Should PD003 be set to 400 since that’s the spindle frequency?

Any advice?

EDIT

so upon watching a YouTube video of someone with the same VFD and also running an 800w spindle (air cooled instead) I found some useful knowledge.

PD009 for me is set to 15. it doesn’t work. the gentlemen in the review said 15 didn’t work for him either and he set it to 7.50

I changed this and the VFD blew a 15a fuse on my little variable speed control box ( I set it to “full” so the VFD gets the full 120v im simply using this box as it has a fuse built in). as soon as I hit “run” it immediately blew the fuse.

The one thing I didn’t change is the Minimum Voltage. I set mine (PD010) to 8, and the review says 4. If I changed the intermediate voltage but leave the minimum voltage at 8, will that damage anything? should I change PD010 to 4?

Luckily there’s no smoke or the smell of burning electronics!

Sad boi hours :frowning:

2

Do you have the manual for the VFD?

Did the seller provide you with recommended settings to start ?

Have you tried starting it at different speeds to see if the problem occurs at higher speeds or only lower speeds?

Is there any other load on the AC circuit which you have the VFD?

3

There is already a load on the ac circuit I’m running. The main fuse box didn’t blow but the fuse I put in between the main circuit and the vfd did.

I found my settings from lots of online research. The settings I have now seem to be close to if not the right settings.

All I have is my Huanyang manual and it lists al the PDXXX codes and their function. Pretty much all huanyang inverters have the same PD codes to program so the manual isn’t much help as it only describes what the code does rather than tell you what parameters you need to put in. The spindle did not come with an instruction manual.

4

I have a Hitachi VFD which comes with a great manual. I looked at this manual to compare my settings to yours.

Not sure which Inverter you have, but the parameter settings should be similar with the exception of input voltage, and maximum current. The manual in the link has adequate information and you should be able to correlate to the 120V input.

Does your spindle work at 220V or 380V?

Do you have a 2 pole or 4 pole spindle? if it’s 24K max RPM, it’s likely a 4 pole motor, but you need to check with the MFG.

As far as the blown fuse, I would recommend checking the wiring of the VFD and Spindle. You should not be drawing much current without a load (cutting) on the spindle.

5

Mine is a huanyang 110v as mentioned above. Two pole. I measured the poles and I get 1-1.5 ohms which is inline with with other users got when they measured their working spindles.

I’m thinking it’s because of a programming error. It’s getting late and I’m gonna go to bed and investigate it tomorrow.

6

Can you double check this ? On my HY VFD operator control (pot on board) is “0”, while “1” is for external control (PWM from Shapeoko). This may explain why you get a very slow spinning, i.e. from the non-perfect 0V on the PWM input especially if it is not actually connected to anything? Does the pot do anything at this point ?

Just checking, did you set it at 120Hz on purpose ? The manual says it’s “main frequency”, it’s easily mistaken with “mains frequency” but is unrelated, this is the frequency the spindle will run at in “digital operator” mode (the pot is ignored but the +/- buttons allow to increase/decrease frequency).

As you noted, those are inverted. Also, PD072 should be 400Hz is you want you spindle to be able to run up to 24.000RPM

Can you get a pic of the markings on the body of your spindle for a check ?

Those two params PD009 and PD010 are the trickiest, given how poor the documentation is.
My manual is for a 220V VFD for 15 and 8 may be appropriate for that voltage, but a quick search came up with this 110V Huanyang manual, and there they show 13.0 and 6.3 as the defaults. Best is probably to ask 110V VFD forum users what they use, I cannot make head or tails of the description in the manual…

7

That fuse may not have been able to support the VFD’s turn on surge current like your (15A?) main circuit breaker (or fuse if you live in a really old house) should be able to.

9

Here are photos of the manual. I when I turn the the dial it goes from 100 to 400 hz so the speed control is fine with respect to the frequency.

Here are photos of my spindle and the manual PD codes

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image3024×4032 3.32 MB

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image3024×4032 3.37 MB

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10

Comparing those settings with my 2.2kW HY VFD

PD002 = 1 (potentiometer on board controls the frequency)
That depends on a jumper position I believe to connect either the onboard pot or the external source, your later post indicates you can change frequency with the pot though so that seems to be working.

PD003 = 120.00 Hz
This appears to be for the ‘digital operator mode’ not analog pot control so we shouldn’t care

PD004 = 400.00 Hz
This is normally set to the base frequency of the spindle, for my spindle that was 50Hz. 50Hz * 60 Seconds would give 3,000RPM and the full 400Hz * 60 Seconds gives the max 24,000RPM.
This setting may affect the voltage / frequency curve and mean the motor cannot operate properly.

PD005 = 400.00 Hz
Yep, for a 24kRPM motor.

PD008 = 110V
That disagrees with the manual pages which suggest 220/380 but if you have a 110V VFD and spindle then 110V would seem to be the right voltage.

PD009 = 15
This is part of the voltage / frequency curve and the manual warns that getting this too high can cause over-current and tripping of the drive. You seem to have a reasonable value though.

PD010 = 8.0
Again, part of the voltage / frequency curve, should be < PD009

PD011 = 100.00
That’s the low limit for operating frequency, this means your min speed would be 6,000RPM. You might adjust this down.

PD072 = 50
PD073 = 100.00
Why is the lower frequency set higher than the high frequency setting?
This is consistent with your min freq control being 100Hz.

PD141 = 110
PD142 = 4.0 amps (guide says 3.7 and the spindle is rated for 5)
Those seem valid (my volts and amps are larger)

PD143 = 2 (number of poles).
Hmm, as per Craig’s comment, mine is 4 poles but I don’t have the specs for your motor.

The voltages need to match the frequencies for the motors, it’s the inductance of the motor that regulates the current (you already saw how low the resistance was) so that makes sense.

What do you mean by variable speed control box?

If the fuse blew on the run command but allowed the VFD to startup then it’s most likely the motor connection or configuration. The HY VFDs have a nasty little timer circuit that does a ‘soft start’ on power on.

That changes the voltage / frequency curve, on my HY there are three points, min V/F, intermediate V/F and max V/F. Less volts will mean less current and less torque, maybe that the motor won’t start up if there’s too little voltage.

Is that a typo? There are normally three power terminals on the motor, there should be around 1-2Ohms DC resistance between any pair as there are three sets of windings.

The number of poles in the motor is down to the internal structure.

I suggest validating the wiring, ensure the three motor phase outputs really go to the motor phases and the ground pin isn’t accidentally swapped for one of them.

Also make sure the shell of the spindle has a solid connection to ground.

11

Will be working more on it tomorrow but I got my connector

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image3024×4032 2.48 MB

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image3024×4032 1.59 MB

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Fit perfectly. The stock soldering inside the spindle was kinda crappy and no adhesive heat shrink. I added adhesive lined heat shrink when I resoldered it.

I’m gonna re-wire the male cable wire output to the spindle as I want to make it super tidy. The stress relief rubber collet does a great job not allowing the wires inside to move at all.

I would highly recommend getting this nicer one. Ill link to it in an official build post for this.

2 Likes
12

A 24k rpm at 400Hz spindle motor has two poles or one pole pair per phase.

The formula is n = 60 x f / p
n = synchronous speed;
f = supply frequency
p = pairs of poles per phase.
The 60 is there to convert the frequency in seconds to revolutions per minute.

So:
60x400/1= 24000rpm
60x400/2=12000rpm

1 Like
13

That’s a nice(r) connector indeed. Once you are back at it, let us know the latest status after you take into account our notes on your VFD parameters. If the spindle works with the dial, it should now be quite straight forward to have it controlled by the Shapeoko’s PWM.

14

Bad news everyone. I plugged and re-did the connections in the vfd and before it turned on and worked (no spindle connected) and after adding crimp terminals and adhesive shrink wrap, and hooking up the spindle, I turned it in and smoke came out of the vfd.

I checked the vfd cable, and there’s no shorts within it.

I checked the 100v input wiring and it looks good. I can’t figure out why it would just break. I’m gonna get an even nicer brand new connector for the spindle since I now want to make another cable/re-work the old one just to be double sure. The terminals on the aviation connector are messy and mangled from all the reworking I’ve done.

Time to order a new one. Should be here this week.

15

Well that’s not good news.

The low cost VFDs do not respond well to an output short circuit, not sure about the more expensive known brands like Delta or Hitachi.

16

@LiamN @Julien @BrokenEndmill
Good news! I got my new VFD!
ive been in florida for the last week and got back a few days ago and now have time to get it going!
here is the current programming
PD000 = 0
PD001 = 0
PD002 = 1
PD003 = 400.00 hz
PD004 = 400.00 hz
PD005 = 400.00
PD006 = 2.5
PD007 = 0.5
PD008 = 110.0
PD009 = 14.0
PD010 = 7.0
PD011 = 100.00

PD014 = 12.0
PD015 = 12.0

PD070 = 1
PD071 = 20
PD072 = 400.00
PD073 = 120.00
PD074 = 0

PD141 = 110.0
PD142 = 5.0
PD143 = 2
PD144 = 3000

does this seem correct? i want to double check everything before i plug the spindle in and hit go!

1 Like
17

Did you intentionally leave PD001 at 0 and set PD002 to 1 ? (which would mean: start/stop is still manual at the VFD but speed is from the PWM)

You should probably initially set PD001 and PD002 to 0, modify all other values, connect everything, test that manual operation of the spindle works fine from the VFD knob, and then change PD001 and PD002 to 1 to let the Shapeoko/PWM control it.

12sec acceleration/deceleration sounds like a pretty slow speed rampup, which is fine in itself but just a word of caution: once you proceed to use the spindle/VFD controlled by G-code, make sure to include delays in your Gcode after the M3 commands, or you will be in for a bad surprise (= the endmill plunging in the material while the spindle is still accelerating towards its target RPM)

Params 9/10/41 could be taken from your VFD manual, mine has this table with values depending on the specific VFD model,

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image2016×1512 567 KB

but I ended up using 15 and 8 (mentioned as the default/factory values) instead of 13 and 6.5 and nothing exploded…

Fingers crossed, let us know how it goes !

2 Likes
18

Yeah,

What Julien said on the programming.

I would suggest carefully testing the motor wiring with a multimeter from the end you’re going to connect to the VFD to make sure all the wiring is good. With the wires to the motor not connected to the VFD you should see 1-3 Ohms resistance between each pairing of the three motor wires and no connection between any of those and the ground wire, which should connect to the spindle casing.

It’s very easy to let the magic smoke out of the VFD by accidentally shorting a winding to ground in the ‘aviation plug’ on the motor.

1 Like
19

I already checked the wiring and they all read 1.0 ohms exactly. I also double checked signal continuity between the female aviation connector pins and the other end of the cable. There are 0 shorts at all. It seems I’m in good shape then! I’ll double check the programming and then give it a go!

2 Likes
20

Alrighty I got my spindle going! I used a programming guide from another forum where the user had the same VFD and 800e spindle as me. I punched in his parameters and boom my spindle works perfectly. I think it is running backwards. Which way does the spindle normally spin when looking down? Counterclockwise or clockwise?

21

Clockwise looking from the top (rotate an endmill in your hand to visualize it, it will become obvious)

spindle running backwards is a classic setup issue (I have been there), you just need to swap any two of the U,V, and W wires between the VFD and spindle. Yes I know it sounds scary, but it’s true (you are very welcome to not take my word for granted and triple check from other people and other sources, if I were in your shoes I would, after all this trouble you went through!)