I really appreciate Carbide 3D providing us with files to 3D print our own clamps, but I didn’t find the 3D printed versions very robust (I’m using PETG-CF). I designed these chunkier versions and I’ve been very happy with them.
I used PETG and have had no issues with mine. It helps if you print them on the sides and full infill.
I agree… with 3D printing orientation is key for strength.
I’ve been printing 6mm socket head bolts 40-60 mm long, fair results, got to be careful on torque.
I would like to print the bolt laying down for strength. Anyone have hints on doing this.
Print the bolt in halves?
Add a dimple and divot for alignment , then super glue. Send thru threading die is what I’m thinking . Just don’t know if worth truble
For this I’d likely just order nylon bolts from McMaster. They’re cheap enough and I’ve used them if I thought I might have located a clamp in the danger zone. 
CUT INTO THE DANGER ZONE
I have only had success printing much larger threads–I have done M30 3-start for a bearing-equipped filament spool holder, and M80 3-start for a cylindrical housing, but even in those cases it turns out much better to use a FDP-friendly thread form, like the round threads in a light bulb socket. I agree with Josh to just buy nylon bolts for everyday use.
Fun fact–PEEK bolts are also available from McMaster for increased strength at vastly increased cost…
What’s it like removing the captive support when you print them on the sides? I don’t like fighting with support more than I have to.
It was not bad at all using PETG, used a small screwdriver and they popped out. I don’t like having to remove infill either but in this case its worth it for a more solid clamp.
