CNC Machine Newbie

Your post makes me want to have both machines, so I could do hogging on the Shapeoko, and finishing on the Nomad, provided the parts are suitably sized. Now I just have to figure a way to make my apartment bigger…

The Shapeoko is capable of making nice looking 3D cut parts with decent accuracy. Its really a matter of how accurate do you need without tweaking anything. If you only want to do small high accuracy parts then the Nomad is your machine. If you want to be able to do large parts then the SO3 is your machine. If I had to pick one I would choose the SO3 XXL for my needs no doubt. The ability to hog out large MDF or plywood parts quickly is more important to me than getting that extra 0.005" accuracy. Sometimes 0.005" accuracy means everything though so it really is an individual decision.

If you stick to 1/8" bits the Nomad is not bad. I didn’t think too much about the low power until I used the Shapeoko and was removing material 10-20x faster. The Nomad and SO3 are different enough that most people will probably rule one out and like the other better based on what they need/want a CNC for. You can buy both of them for much less than a single “next step up” router or mill on the market.

I came from a 3D printing background so the Nomad seemed like it was lightning fast compared to printing. The spindle power didn’t raise any concern until I used the SO3 … then my need for speed was kindled. The Nomad is a LOT stiffer than the SO3 so if it had a 1000W spindle it would be a much more capable machine than it already is. It works well as is though for most materials and using 1/8" diameter or smaller cutters.

Hi there-

I just came across this thread and was wondering if you ever put together a pro/con list for the machines? I’m looking at them both as well and am trying to decide.

Thanks kindly!
Z

Knowledgebase article on this:

http://docs.carbide3d.com/article/82-nomad-vs-shapeoko

Ah, thank you! However I’m really trying to decide between X-Carve (which just had a new update last week) and Shapeoko 3.

Hard to expect an unbiased answer to that here, but here’s my take:

It’s nice that Inventables, finally got around to addressing joining the double X-axis. Suspect there’s an underlying engineering reason for the new 750mm size. Load bearing data: http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Makerslide#Extrusions

Still kind of odd to me they pass off the custom X carriage extrusion as a stiffening mod rather than the cost savings which it is.

The X-Carve is a nice, minor upgrade to a Shapeoko 2, which is a great machine at its stock size. It’s okay upgrading along the Y-axis w/ side supports, though that feels claustrophobic when using it.

Price difference is ~$160 comparing the new XC to the red Shapeoko 3 from Sparkfun (3 in stock) or increasing to ~$260 for the current black one from C3D (that nets one homing switches though) — even the $697 of a 2015 X-Carve on sale is more than the original list of an SO2, and more than twice the intended price of an SO1.

  • 12"x12" vs. 16"x16" work area
  • ~3" vs ~3.5" Z-height
  • lightweight and portable vs. largish and awkward to move
  • easily sourced extrusion vs. much heavier custom extrusion only available in kits

I think the SO3 is a far better value (but still regret selling my SO2 to make room), and the most reasonable use case for a 500x500 XC is needing portability enough to trade off on rigidity, cutting speed/material removal rate, &c.

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I found a practically new x-carve for 1000 next town over. Ran right over cash in hand and was extremely disappointed in the rigidity of the x-carve. I have had a new XXL sitting in my workshop for the last 3 weeks and it is so much more machine than the x-carve IMHO. Ray

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Hi Guys- Thank you so much for the thoughtful replies, I’m just getting a chance to write back now. I figured unbiased info might be hard to come by here, but what you wrote was extremely helpful and is in line with the other research I’ve been doing. One follow up question then- while it seems the x and y axis stiffness and effective tolerances are superior on the Shapeoko, I’ve heard the Z-axis tolerance can be “temperamental”. Have you found this to be the case? While I’m not exactly doing contract work for NASA, good depth control is important for the kind of work I’ll be doing.

The belt axis Z is a bit strange at first and won’t work well if not properly tensioned (I had to use a small pry bar — careful not to bend the motor shaft). It’d be easy to replace it w/ an Acme screw — I even worked up a parts list: http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/User:Willadams#Acme_screw — but no one AFAIK has done so — you’d give up speed and add weight and it’s just easier to adjust the belt so that it works and then use that.

I find the z axis to be the weak point of the SO3 But still find it to be quite accurate. The bed / spoil board really needs addressing i.e flattening for truly tight consistent tolerances.

Thanks Ray. Let me ask then- what kind of tolerances are you getting on the Z? And have you found a good way to mitigate or work around this?

Now keep in mind I’m a bit of a newbie myself but… I believe it depends on the material and finding the right speed and feed for your machine. I believe each machine is probably a bit different.
That being said I’ve done some practice cuts in MDF for a big 24" inlay (traditional not V) and the Z depth was within say .003 - .007, again “I” believe it is extremely important that you get your deck flat to your gantry!
Over all I had to offset my pocket -.0015 which equals .003 bigger and offset my male inlay -.0015 which again = .003 smaller and it fit like a glove!
I’ve been cutting on some polycarbonate with similar results ( think I have the wrong end mill).
Honestly for a hobby machine that borders on semi “pro” it really is a great machine and I’m thrilled with it.
Hope this rambling helped, G/L Ray

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@zvatindustries
I was wondering the same thing. I am still debating on which machine to buy…the X Carve or the Shapeoko 3. I have played with both easel and carbide and I really am liking easel. Having said that, the Shapeoko 3 looks to be a better machine.

I know both companies have been pushing updates to their hardware as of late (October 2016) with Shapeoko making improvements to the z axis plate and the X Carve making updates to their controller box, making a more rigid gantry and various other things such as a Z-Probe and better hardware. These were all considerations of mine in my purchase. At this point in the game I more lost than ever as to which would be the better machine.

I am new to CNC’s and am torn as to which direction to proceed. both from perspective of the machines themselves as well as the software.