I have been on a making spree. I wanted to make some cribbage boards to sell at the Farmer’s Market and some shops on Main Street in Nacogdoches. I had downloaded some files from Cutrocket and will make some of them. However I downloaded one from etsy.com that was already a C3D file from v8. I had to edit all the tool paths and cut one today from some Water Oak that was a tree that used to be in my yard. I have never played cribbage and have looked at youtube about how to play. I am not a game player and the game has a lot of rules that I will never try to learn. My daughter and grandson love to play video games but I guess the game playing gene skipped a generation with me.
This is a rather long game but I think it came out very well. I used a 20 degree vee bit, #251 1/4" endmill, a #102 1/8" end mill and an extra long 1/4" down cut bit for the cut out. The material is 1" thick and 6.5" wide by 28" but some of the length was cut away.
I bought the game pieces from Amazon and the cards as well. I had bought 2 of the C3D cribbage kits and have 3 more on the way. I will use those for the files from Cutrocket.com.
I applied one coat of Watco Clear Danish Oil and the wood looks very nice. Now to just figure out a price. Since the card and game pieces had a cover I found a Texas outline and carved that into the cover.
From what I read you can have 3 players on this board and it seems you move only one piece of the two at a time. Not sure why they have two slots at the start. Many cribbage boards I saw on line have a similar look. I did download a round one I am still editing. I got the size so the peg holes are just over .125". There a bunch of X’s on the holes I am removing so I can group all the peg holes and will have to glue up some boards for this 12" x 12" material. I will incorporate something similar to the above for the card and peg storage.
So, the board is actually only used for keeping score. When there are three peg holes for each player at the start, that typically means that there is also a separate area for keeping track of the wins for each player. If there are only two peg holes for each player at the start, there is usually no separate “games won” section.
There are two pegs used for keeping score, and they leapfrog over each other. That way, if there is a question about the points for that round, you always know where you started from, and everyone can easily see how many points you are moving forward. Makes it hard(er) to cheat, and easy to audit the points and go back if necessary.
If you happen to plan on making a bunch of boards, there are a couple of bulk peg sellers out there. I used to buy from https://www.petespegs.com/ when I was cranking them out. He retired and sold the business to someone else, but the site is still there and appears to be about the same, but I haven’t purchased pegs in 6+ years. I think I was buying 300 each of the #15 Columbia pegs in each of the 4 colors he sold (copper, brass, aluminum and black steel)
I also bought the larger ones. They are nice for people who don’t have the dexterity to grab the smaller ones. I think I could scrounge up the #16 and #18 pegs if anyone wants to see the size compared to the “regular” size #15.
The pegs I bought on Amazon are tapered. The pegs from C3D are straight. You mentioned the 4 colors and I got black, chrome and the other 2 colors look identical. I think they were supposed to be copper/brass and gold but I just cannot tell them apart.
I will make a few more of these all different until I run out of parts. If they sell I will get more parts but if they dont it has been a cheap experiment.
