I don’t need hardware often, but there’s a place near me that I think you’d get a kick out of @WillAdams called Second Chance.
They have a bunch of stuff from homes getting remodeled, to include a bunch of random smaller hardware. I don’t think you’re all that far away, so if you do happen to come down this way, pretty sure I owe you at least a beverage of choice.
We have a Habitat for Humanity Restore up here which is similar, and there was actually a venerable for profit store in Richmond which was flat out amazing for what they had. Just checked, Caravati’s is still in business and worth visiting for anyone working on or restoring an older home.
Next occasion I’m down that way we’ll have to do a get-together so I can collect.
Will that is a nice box. I love to make box joints. I have an Incra Box joint jig. I use it with a Frued 1/4 or 3/8 box joint jig. All I have to do is mount the blade and adjust the Incra jig for the work piece. The jig is already set up for the Frued blade and you can really pour out the box joints. I also make most of my drawers with the Incra box jig. I have dovetail jigs, 45 degree lock miter and drawer lock joint bits but I make more and more of them with the Incra jig. What I really like to do is make the box out of plain grained wood and put some figured wood on top. Usually I make them in contrasting woods and get a great visual impact.
In my pic above I want to point out the champher at the top and bottom but especially at the middle. I cut the top off the box after glueing. This ensures the top and bottom are the same size and even if the box is not square they match. The champher around the middle makes a shadow li e which hides the line in case the box lid is a little high in the rear. It can be tricky to get a lid to sit perfectly flat and being a little higher in the back makes the lid fit better. I also use 100 degree stop piano type hinges that I can just cut a dado for the hinge to fit in. Plus the champher created a natural stop to keep the lid from being sprung open and pull out the screws.
The tops and bottoms are captured at glue up so I have to prefinish them with a couple of coats of wipe on poly. Then during do ishing of the box I can add a few more coats along with the box. I never finish the inside of the box with poly. I use scented wax for the inside. The poly stinks forever. Additionally I quit capturing the bottom of the box. I use a 1/2 inch rabbet bit 1/4 inch deep. Then I cut a 1/4 inch plywood bottom with rounded corners. Then screw the bottom on after adding psa velvet on the bottom. It is almost impossible to get a piece of rectangular psa glued down square in the box bottom. Plus I have seen many antique boxes with worn out liner and no good way to replace it. With the 1/2 inch rabbet hiding the edges of the velvet it makes a clean appearance.
I am kind of a one-trick-pony when it comes to hardware, but for what it’s worth, I was using quite a few 10mm hidden barrel hinges for my portable cribbage boards, and I found quite the pricing discrepancy disparity when searching online.