Hey Will, do you keep these tutorials somewhere like the Wiki with a short description? I guess they are here in the tutorial section but it may be hard to find what you are looking for especially if it was done a while ago. We may have no use or time for this at this time bnut later, we may want to get back to it or we may have missed one of your posts on something of interest. I have no idea what you covered last year for example and maybe that info would be useful in a project.
If you have a repository of tutorials, can I suggest that when you post these tutorials, you put a reference in the first post of the thread as to where these tutorials are kept.
Unfortunately, we don’t have signature blocks here — I’ll have to give that some thought.
I’ve cleaned up the .scad file a bit, and posted it to: https://github.com/WillAdams/Design_Into_3D/tree/master/box/fingerjoint/magazine and made a .dxf — next up is puzzling out doing the joinery in Carbide Create, then I’ll have to work out a technique for automating making vector files using METAPOST or some other tool.
I’m excited about making simple boxes. Laser folks have it easy with makercase and this looks like the equivalent with the CNC. Looking forward to you releasing this Will.
This shape may then be duplicated, flipped, rotated, and otherwise placed over the fingers, and the parts arranged suitably, with a surrounding geometry added:
CrookedWoodTex
(Tex Lawrence (Don't Mess With My Texas!))
22
Sorry, I don’t see it. I mean, I see it, but I don’t SEE it. Looks like somewhere in there you changed bits or something. Best if I try to duplicate what you’ve done on a real board.
I am just wondering why you chose to use a .25 dia bit to cut the box out When it could have been done with and .125 end mill and there would have been tighter corners.Also why does the simulation look like the wood has been rounded over.
Used a 1/4" because that’s the size downcut endmill Carbide 3D sells (used a #251) and to ensure that the radius of the cut would interfere with assembly and the wood looks as if it’s rounded over because I added a V carving operation to chamfer the edges of the fingers, which will hopefully allow things to be assembled anyway.
Finally had occasion to calibrate the machine (the second cut was intentionally done with a decalibrated machine) and it fits together quite easily — probably one could use a few fewer tabs in the .c2d file.
A further improvement might be to try cutting the areas for the finger joints only 1/2–2/3rds the thickness of the board deep, and shortening the fingerjoints by the inverse of that amount — that would hide the joinery, and slightly increase the gluing area.
Is that new? I haven’t looked at boxmaker in a long time, but I don’t remember that.
I use an extension in Inkscape for laser cut boxes, but I may take another look. For irregular stuff, I just use Fusion, but it’s not quick.