Howdy,
I would like to know (as European) potential customer if any one of you chooses the Makita over the Dewalt - what are the pros and cons of both models ?
It seems that the Dewalt is not available anywhere in Europe yet
Cheers
Howdy,
I would like to know (as European) potential customer if any one of you chooses the Makita over the Dewalt - what are the pros and cons of both models ?
It seems that the Dewalt is not available anywhere in Europe yet
Cheers
This video by Winston Moy sums it up better than anywhere else I have seen…
Credit of course belongs to @wmoy
I chose the Makita, and the big drawing card is the lower RPM Range, in case I decide to work with Aluminum.
I did the same…for the same reason-the video!
In Europe and other 220 V places you want a Dewalt D26200 rather than DWP611
http://www.dewalt.co.uk/powertools/productdetails/catno/D26200/
note that the bundled collet size will vary based on locality, 6.35mm (compatible with the 1/4" endmill bundled w/ the machine is common, but 8mm is not unheard of)
Per Shapeoko 4 CNC Router - Carbide 3D
If you are outside of the US and need 220VAC, you will need to purchase a router from a local retailer.
220VAC Dewalt Part number: D26200
I started w/ the Dewalt, tried the Makita, and switched back to the Dewalt.
The problem w/ the Makita for me was the deflection I was experiencing, it was substantially more than I got on my Dewalt.
I preferred the two-wrench method of changing bits on the Makita, and the lower RPM range. So shame it didn’t work great for me.
Interesting that problem. Did you try a different unit for the Makita? Could the deflection have been caused by the adapter ring? Did you try an Elaire Collet?
I started with the Dewalt and purchased a Makita in an attempt to improve my cuts in Aluminum. I found that the lower RPM did not improve the quality of the cuts.
I have gone back to using the Dewalt.
I didn’t try swapping the Makita. I got it from Amazon and didn’t identify the issue until my return window was closing.
I was cutting acrylic (cast) at the time, and if I set a part I cut up on edge, it would lean a few degrees. Didn’t matter what edge, the part was cut like a truncated pyramid.
I put the Dewalt back in and the problem pretty much vanished. Not perfect but as close to it as I suspect you can get one of these machines.
I didn’t try a different collet, either. Just the one that came w/ the router.
I will say that I did do some research and found a person or two that agreed that the collet for the Dewalt is much more robust, or grabs the bit over a longer section.
Wish I could tell you more.
Interesting on the collet design aspect — wonder if there’s any way in which Elaire could alter their collet design to improve this.
I have never used the Makita, but if you can swing it, a DWP-611 combined with a Super-PID works really well.
This gives you a range of 5000 to 30000 RPM and the increased flexibility to easily “knob” the speed. I find that for most cuts I calculate the starting feeds and speeds and then adjust the speed based on the sound of the cut and/or the chip size. Sometimes a change of <500 RPM is enough to greatly improve the cut.
I can second this, I really like my SuperPID. I think with the Makita there’s some awkwardness in trying to install the speed sensor for the SPID, but I have no direct experience with this. On the Dewalt it was a pretty straight forward install.
Dan