Do I need a bit zero

I have the shapeoko 4 xxl with the bit setter… do i need the bitzero as well or am i good with what I have? New to this so any info would be greatly appreciated

You do not need the bitzero. You can use other methods to set your WCS (Workpiece Coordinate System). I usually…

When you initialize, load the first tool you will use & let it measure the tool.
Move your tool to the part where you want to set your zero.
Move the tool down until it touches the top of the part.
Set your Z zero
Move the tool so it touches the left side of the part
Set you X zero. Type in the radius of your tool as a negative instead of clicking “Zero X”
(i.e If it’s a 1/4" tool, type in -0.125 and hit Enter)
Move the tool so it touches the front of the part
Set your Y zero. (Same as X, use the tool radius)

Double check. Move your tool up to where it’s clear. Select Rapid Motions & Move to XY zero.
Move to 6mm above Z zero. Jog down to the top of the part & make sure everything is at zero and it’s just touching the corner of the part with the CENTER of the cutter.

HINT: When touching off position yourself so you can see light between the cutter & the surface you are touching off to. I use a small flashlight if there isn’t enough natural light. Hold the light behind the tool shining on the part.

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The BitZero is useful for folks who need to set origin relative to a surface a rectangular piece of stock.

Usually folks doing metalwork or joinery want it, while folks doing decorative work, esp. if they surface their stock on the machine don’t use it as much.

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I use the BitZero almost every time I need to change the zero. I almost never use the BitSetter and instead just create separate files for each tool and reset the Z zero with either the BitZero or by touching off. I suppose I should use the BitSetter more, but I find it an annoyance to have it enabled all the time so I just don’t use it. If I had to chose between the two, I’d definitely want the BitZero.

You don’t have to have either. You can either touch off the sides and top to find your zero points, or for the X and Y you can use either an L bracket or dowel holes in your wasteboard to establish a known X/Y (or multiple ones) and set up a quick action to zero the X/Y to that point.

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I have both and I use both on every job.

The only pain is remembering to put the alligator clamp onto the bit. I forget 1 out of 5 times. lol…

Store the BitZero so that you have to remove the ground lead — make it a habit not to let go of it until it is clipped to the tool.

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I like to manually set the Z more near the center of the wood. Us papersetter. If something is off or wrapped my project looks better from the center out. Bitsetter gets my bit changes all back to the same Z.
Personal log… Must stop trying to Router hole in bitsetter. Bad Stephen.

I have both BitZero and BitSetter. I use both but sometimes I just set the origin manually. My Whiteside 6210 1" fly bit has a hollow in the bottom so it is not compatible with the BitSetter. Plus when surfacing my spoilboard I remove it from the machine (SO3 V1 BitSetter) so I do not accidentally hit it when surfacing. When I surface I make my rectangle for the spoilboard 1/2" bigger than the actual spoilboard so I get all the edges leveled and do not leave a cliff that would interfere with a long board being not level with the spoilboard.

So the BitZero is not a necessity but it is very useful. The one I have is a V1 which is different from the current V2 version. It is handy because I have one but if I did not have one I would be ok. I started with my Shapeoko 3 long before there was a BitZero, BitSetter or BitRunner so I know how to do it manually. However I have all 3 and really like the convenience of all 3. So if you have a spare $120.00 then get it. If not the machine is still very useful doing things manually.

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Yes. Just get it. You will be happy. It’s easier, better, and more accurate. Seriously, i cant imagine working without it.

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