I finally got some down cut end mills and I love them. Makes cleanup non-existent. Now do they make a 60 degree V bit in down cut also. I would think they could just put the carbide in at an angle. I took a look on Amazon and couldn’t find any. Do any of you know where to find one?
Thanks
I don’t believe they make them. Is your v-bit creating burrs? You may just have to find a sharper V-bit if you’re having issues currently.
When vcaarving I use either Easy Liner Adhesive Self paper, I get it at Walmart or Lowes, or I use Oramask 813. I usually use dewaxed shellac, Zinnzer Universal Sanding Sealer, first before applying my mask. Then painting vcarving is not as messy. On Oak that is cut at 90 degrees to the grain there can be fraying of the edges of both types of mask. You can use a stiff nylon brush to get the fuzzies off. On other woods like walnut and cherry there is very little fraying of the edge of either mask. All wood is subject to fraying with masks but some woods are just easier to cut. With the dewaxed shellac it seals the wood so paint does not bleed up the pores of the wood fibers as easily. When you peel your mask off you can it it with 100/120 sandpaper to get any over spray and sand the sealer off. The Dewaxed shellac is a good sealer for both oil and water based top coats and/or paint.
If you dont seal wood it takes 2-3 more coats of poly or other coating to get the same finish you get with one coat of dewaxed shellac and poly or other top coat.
There is a Zinnzer Shellac that is waxed and that causes some top coats to fail or not cover efficiently. I get mine at Rockler, Woodcraft or on Amazon but the Zinnzer Shellac does not mention wax but it is in there. Wax is a by product of the bug execration that they made shellac from. If you use shellac flakes and denatured alcohol you have to let the shellac settle and remove the wax. The canned shellac is ready to use and lasts over a year when opened and you can add denatured alcohol is it evaporates. Always mark the date opened on top of the can.
Zinser Sealcoat is the dewaxed stuff in a can. Some home centers and hardware stores carry it.
The Zinser shellac in the aerosol can is also dewaxed.
The two other canned products, blonde and amber, have wax. You can decant them and get almost-dewaxed in a pinch.
Wellermart (google should find their storefront) has been my go-to for dewaxed flakes at good prices even after shipping costs. And I can get Everclear to mix it with. Shot for the shellac, shot for me…
I was working from memory and that is not too good any more.
Here are the products I was referring to:
Dewaxed Shellac
Shellac with wax in it
I’ve been looking into something like this for not only my v carving but for my whole pieces. What material do you do this on? Right now I’m working with MDF. I need the surface to be perfectly white so I paint my boards white a few days prior and let it harden fully. I can’t apply any sort of shellac to that white because it’ll yellow it, even slightly. But I was looking into an adhesive paper/ vnyl to stick onto the wite paint before I cut my piece out so I could paint my piece then remove that adhesive at the end. Ive just been looking for the sweet spot of something that wont rip off from the router bit cutting through it (or gumming up the bit), and something that wont rip off my white paint layer
You will have to try the Oramask or the Easy Liner Shelf Paper. Neither have left residue behind but I am using it on bare wood or shellac covered wood not paint. Look on youtube I have seen videos of masking over paint.
Zinser makes a shellac based primer that is dead white (titanium dioxide). Being shellac based it doesn’t raise fuzzies on MDF. But it isn’t a durable surface and would need a topcoat.
Dewaxed shellac (Sealcoat from posts above) is almost dead clear and would be used under your white topcoat.
Another alternative in the waterborne world is the Lenmar Duralaq line of products. Their Duralaq Undercoater is dead white, cheap as these things go a d doesn’t cause too much fuzzies on MDF. They have a white poly that is reasonably durable and dead white. That would be the topcoat. It is a modified acrylic. These must be sprayed, not brush or roller compatible.
Similar products from General Finishes, Sherwin-Williams (professional products), Target (not the dry goods store) and others.
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