Hi there, pretty new to CNC using a Shapeoko 4 XL and I am trying to get an electric guitar build going with my middle school kids (we have 50 DIY kits). My main question is, what bits are you using for deeper pockets? I have a thick piece of 1.8" stock we are starting with (thanks Taylor guitars). I am not seeing many options that can get the depth we need for a pocket that is 1.4" deep. On a Strat or Tele, it looks like that is the recommended depth minimum, although many suggest 1.55" and that would definitely be very deep. I currently have the Nomad Starter kit with the 1/4 end mill, but that only has 0.75" cut depth. I have been looking online, and I am seeing almost no options with 1/4 diameter shank and the cut depth we need. the closest I have found is this one from Amazon.
Alternative solutions would be to flip and cut down on both sides going through, then cover with a pick guard for the front and a plate on the back?
Amazon doesn’t have everything. You can find longer cutting end mills such as this(1-7/8" cut length) from dedicated stores. Pretty sure there are at least a couple threads on the forum of people listing some of their go-to CNC bit suppliers.
Cadance Manufacturing has a 1/4" 2" cutting length.
I have a couple of their bits and they are very good. The 60 degree downcut Groovee Jenny is very good because it is a downcut vee bit and leaves a very smooth cut even in pine.
You can cut 1 1/2" deep with the 201. The mill is 2 1/2" overall, so that leaves you with 3/4" - 7/8" in the collet. If the shank is rubbing after 3/4" deep, just offset the pocket a bit (0.005" is probably plenty) and cut it as a stepped pocket. (step exaggerated so you can see it)
The only pocket on a tele that needs to be that deep is the lower pocket for the knobs & connections.
I have a Melin 4" OAL 1/4" bit. The thing about extra long bits is any runout is exaggerated. So when you use a long bit you need to seat it further up in the collet than a regular bit. Usually you only need to seat a bit to the top of the collet for maximum hold. With the long bits you need to seat it higher. Do not push the bit all the way up. The inside of the inclined plane of the router shaft is uneven and when tightening the collet and nut the bit is pushed up slightly. If the bit is all the way up it will have more run out possibly and has no where to go when tightened. Just make sure you seat it as high as you can without bottoming it out and there is enough of the cutting flutes exposed to not run the collet nut into the project. Additionally when starting the router if it sounds funny stop and reseat the bit.
When running long bits it is advisable to pause periodically and retighten the bit. The extra runout and vibration can make the bit come loose.
I do a bunch of stuff out of 2x material (for example see soil compression lab set up in the what did you build thread) and this is my go to bit for thick stock. I have also gotten long end mills from eBay (drillman1 I think was the fellow. They are out of Georgetown TX , and are a source for a lot of good mills)
