Epoxy Steelers Logo

A good friend of mine is leaving and the center I work for let me have free range on his going away gift.

He’s a huge Steelers fan.

I still have the grey circle to cut and I’m going to cut the inner white deeper and fill with clear epoxy.

Then do a nice “dome” cut on the clear epoxy to create a “what I’m hoping is a cool effect” to the overall logo.

I’ll post the finished project


I did something I thought was a pretty good idea.

The wife didn’t like me pouring epoxy in the house so I built a curing mabob.

It has a heating blanket built into it. So it solves two issues:

  1. My shop is around 60 degrees, this keeps the surface of the material around 75 degrees.

  2. Protects from containment’s in the air from landing in the epoxy.

So far the garage hasn’t burned down and the epoxy is curing without issues.


Yinz got it on the mark! From Steel Town originally.

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Nice work, but that’s the ugliest thing I’ve seen here in a while!
Go Browns!


Women just don’t understand. My wife keeps wanting to park her car in the garage. :slight_smile:


Only thing left is to plane the top coat, cut it out and polish it.

I was gone for 2 weeks on a trip. It was nice to get back and get this thing finished


Turned out pretty good. Couple little mishaps, but all in all it was fun to tackle something this large


A superb gift to your friend for sure. Do you mind sharing tips on your top coat technique ? (what epoxy mix, do you just overpour and let it do its thing, how level does the piece has to be, etc…).

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I had a somewhat hard time with the top coat. I ran out of my usual Pro Marine Top Coat epoxy and ended up getting some really over priced ECOPoxy UVpoxy. Both have a max depth pour of 1/4”.

I hot glued around the circle to contain the top coat and cut a 1/8” pocket around the outside black for the epoxy to fill around the entire piece. I cut the pocket deep enough to allow 1/32” of wood material to contain it.

The ECOpoxy cured enough (12hrs) to flatten down to 2mm thickness. Once it was flat, I took it to the router to round the edges and exposed the backside epoxy edge.

Then it’s sanding of 120/220 then wet sanding 320 up to 2000 grit.

I didn’t have any fancy 3M Compound/polish and ended up using Maquire’s car stuff I had in the garage.

The entire process of sanding/buffing/polishing/waxing took about 2hrs.

It’s completely flat


McGuires ScratchX is a very fine polish for plastics. You can smooth poly and expxy with it.


Thanks for the info.

And here I was hoping you got that superb finish from just pouring a top coat. Sanding and I are not best friends, but it’s reassuring to know that at least there is no magic trick and it is a required step in the process.

Right, so THAT is what I am not doing (buffing/polishing/waxing), I have some learning to do.

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I learned the hard way that the heavier stuff needs more hanger. I added a short French cleat hanger that I cut.

The French cleat will hold the object away from the wall a bit (depending on how thick the cleat is). Add a riser/spacer, of the same thickness, near the lower part of the object to maintain an even distance away from the wall.

Thats very nice. I plan on doing same for a friend who is a Pittsburg steelers Fan. This will be first epoxy inlay. What size is the sign. What epoxy and dies do u recommend

@EvansDad overall diameter was 29”. I primarily use top coat marine epoxy. Half way through I ran out and bought ECOpoxy. Both are great for this type of application. The ECOpoxy smells a lot more healthy working with it.

For dying the epoxy, I use acrylic paints to match the colors needed.

I use this website: PaintMaker - SensualLogic

I can upload my image, choose the type of paint, and it will generate my mixture by parts to match the desired color I highlighted. I’ve had great results with it! Rule of thumb is 1/10th acrylic of the amount of epoxy to fully dye the epoxy.

Hope this helps with your logo!