I used the Whiteside flattening bit to flatten both sides of a 29” square glued up bit of cedar. You can see in the pics the pattern that was created. I saw this when I flattened the wasteboard but it was barely visible then. Even in the cedar I couldn’t really feel the grooves. I thought hitting it quickly with 220 would clean it up but it took a little more effort than I thought.
It’s pretty uniform all the way around so I don’t know if that would really indicate a tramming issue.
I’d say yes, that’s tramming. It looks “even” because it’s off in both X and Y.
Could also be loose/uneven belts and loose v-wheels. Those can both cause the router bit to “tip” away from the direction of travel.
Thanks. I do think I need to tighten the belts based on what I have been reading. I will try that tomorrow.
I have the Pro XXL. I checked for square on the router but didn’t do a real framing test. The piece I made to hold my dial indicator broke and I was too lazy the make another one. I guess I should have.
When you feel across the right to left see if you can figure out which side the higher ridge is. Then use the eccentric nuts on the router mount to adjust for that. So if the ridges are on the left then the right side needs to come up. If the ridges are on the right then the left side needs to come up. The front to back is similar but you have to shim the router mount. If the ridges are at the back then the bottom of the router mount needs to be shimmed. If the ridges are towards the front then shim the top of the router mount. Some people shim the Whole Z axis between the plate and the Z axis. Either way will help get your router level with the spoilboard. If you shim the whole Z axis then put matching shims on each side to make sure you do not get the Z axis twisted. It is not as hard as it sounds.
This is my super fancy tramming tool. Chuck the short end into the spindle and rotate it around to figure out high side/low side. I like it even better than my dial gauge 
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