I did climb on my roughing 3d pocket pass, and conventional on my contour finishing pass.
Can you mill it from both sides to reduce tool stickout and deflection?
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Worried I won’t accurately re-zero the center of each when I flip the parts, and the two sides won’t be concentric on the same axis. But yes, that is an option if I could do it.
Bummer.
I second that.
If you can’t, then it gets tough.
I try to plan the taper in to any vertical surface I can, since it helps reduce rubbing and deflection. If I can’t, I tend to break deep pocket jobs into several operations with progressively deeper bottom heights (Fusion and Inventor make this easy), even if I am using the same size tool all of the way down. I set the stickout from the collet to the operation. I will use the shortest tool I can for each operation.
I also have a few long shank, short cut tools. The most common in 1/8" shank is 1/2" depth-of-cut tools are 1-12" long overall, and 3/4" DOC are 2-1/4". I don’t use 1"DOC on the Nomad, but IIRC, they tend to 3" overall. This means the minimum stickout for a 3/4"DOC tool is nearly 25mm (1") to keep the flute out of the collet. Tools are available with less depth of cut, and I have a few 1/8" with smaller length of cut for deep operations. They are stiffer. One I use a bit is a Kennametal 2" long, 1/4"DOC square end (I think I got it from MSC).
What does your fixturing method look like? I wonder if the piece could not be rigid enough and shifting with the cutter forces.
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